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| Copyright: studio-miranda |
Showing posts with label Finishings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Finishings. Show all posts
Saturday, 28 November 2015
Sideways Edge Cast-On, a knitting unvention! plus, Swerve!
by Lee Meredith
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
So, start out by casting on the number of stitches in your edge – you may want to use a provisional cast-on so you can graft or 3-needle bind-off later if you’ll be working in the round. In this example, my edge number is 6 stitches, and after casting on I knit one row, then purled one row to get started (these starting rows can change depending on pattern specifics), followed by my first increase row, so the beginning goes:
Cast-on 6 stitches.
Knit 1 row.
Purl 1 row.
Kfb, place marker, k to end.
And now it looks like:
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
So, start out by casting on the number of stitches in your edge – you may want to use a provisional cast-on so you can graft or 3-needle bind-off later if you’ll be working in the round. In this example, my edge number is 6 stitches, and after casting on I knit one row, then purled one row to get started (these starting rows can change depending on pattern specifics), followed by my first increase row, so the beginning goes:
Cast-on 6 stitches.
Knit 1 row.
Purl 1 row.
Kfb, place marker, k to end.
And now it looks like:
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| Copyright: Lee Meredith |
Tuesday, 17 November 2015
Monday, 7 September 2015
Adding the border to my sencillo shawl
2012/01/31 BY BRITTSNEEZER
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
SHAWLETTE PATTERN HERE and HERE
i have had a demand for directions on adding the border to my sencillo shawl after knitting the body. so here we go…
knit the entire body of the shawl ignoring the bold border directions. which means you will be casting on1st to start. to do the first increase then i would just kfb.
now with your border yarn, CO 10 sts and follow row 1’s border directions.
turn work and knit the row 2 directions to the last st.
slip that stitch to the right needle and then pick up the first stitch of the first garter ridge from the right side of the main body knitting.
knit that first stitch with the last stitch from the border (through the back or the front, whichever feels easier) and turn work.
on row 3, slip the first stitch and then follow the directions for the rest of the border stitches in that row. turn work. and knit row 4 border stitches, again knitting the last stitch with the first stitch in the next ridge.
continue in this manner to the end.
now you see some extra pulling in my picture but that is because i was using too large of needles with the thin yarn (because that was all that i had available.)
Monday, 24 August 2015
Grafting Live Stitches to a Cast On
Grafting Live Stitches to a Cast On
Posted by rachelerin on Feb 4, 2012 in All Tutorials
Grafting is a technique unique to knitting – a way to join two open ends with a row of fabric instead of a seam. This tutorial demonstrates how to graft open stitches to a cast-on. I used this technique in my Little Froggy pattern.
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
NB: When I had this tutorial tested, we ran into different definitions of purl-wise and knit-wise, stemming from our different knitting styles. When I say purl-wise, I mean bringing the needle from the back of the work to the front, through the leading leg of the stitch. Knit-wise means taking the needle front to back, through the leading leg of the stitch.
I used the backwards loop cast-on because I find it the easiest to graft to – the loops are less bulky than other cast-on methods.
Getting started is often the trickiest part. The goal is to come purl-wise through the left hand leg of the edge stitch. To find the edge stitch, I always look for the Vs, and then go as far out to the edge as I can. The half of the V that is near the edge is the one I thread the needle through.
Then you going knit-wise through the first leg of the live stitch on the needle. This is where you go front-to-back through the first leg of the live stitch on the needle. (My knit-wise may look slightly different because I am a combination knitter).
Remember that V from the second picture? Now we’re going to “hug” it.
(If you were doing kitchener stitch, this would be the “knit-purl” part on the back needle.)
Now you go knit-wise through the first loop on the needle, and drop it off the needle.
Then go purl-wise(back-to-front through the first leg) through the next stitch on the needle.
“hug” the next V along the cast on edge…
…thread the needle knit-wise through the first stitch on the needle, dropping it off the needle, and go purl-wise through the next stitch.
Continue until the last sts….
Here I have done step 3 on the last 2 stitches of the left needle.
I “hug” the last complete V on the cast-on piece….
…and go knit-wise through the last stitch on the needle, dropping it from the needle.
Weave in the ends, and we’re all done!
Posted by rachelerin on Feb 4, 2012 in All Tutorials
Grafting is a technique unique to knitting – a way to join two open ends with a row of fabric instead of a seam. This tutorial demonstrates how to graft open stitches to a cast-on. I used this technique in my Little Froggy pattern.
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
NB: When I had this tutorial tested, we ran into different definitions of purl-wise and knit-wise, stemming from our different knitting styles. When I say purl-wise, I mean bringing the needle from the back of the work to the front, through the leading leg of the stitch. Knit-wise means taking the needle front to back, through the leading leg of the stitch.
I used the backwards loop cast-on because I find it the easiest to graft to – the loops are less bulky than other cast-on methods.
Getting started is often the trickiest part. The goal is to come purl-wise through the left hand leg of the edge stitch. To find the edge stitch, I always look for the Vs, and then go as far out to the edge as I can. The half of the V that is near the edge is the one I thread the needle through.
Then you going knit-wise through the first leg of the live stitch on the needle. This is where you go front-to-back through the first leg of the live stitch on the needle. (My knit-wise may look slightly different because I am a combination knitter).
Remember that V from the second picture? Now we’re going to “hug” it.
(If you were doing kitchener stitch, this would be the “knit-purl” part on the back needle.)
Now you go knit-wise through the first loop on the needle, and drop it off the needle.
Then go purl-wise(back-to-front through the first leg) through the next stitch on the needle.
“hug” the next V along the cast on edge…
…thread the needle knit-wise through the first stitch on the needle, dropping it off the needle, and go purl-wise through the next stitch.
Continue until the last sts….
Here I have done step 3 on the last 2 stitches of the left needle.
I “hug” the last complete V on the cast-on piece….
…and go knit-wise through the last stitch on the needle, dropping it from the needle.
Weave in the ends, and we’re all done!
Sunday, 23 August 2015
Grafting live stitches to cast on or bound off stitches
Crochet Evenly Around
Crochet Finish Technique: “Crochet Evenly Around”
By Corinne Munger
Read ORIGINAL POST HERE
Many crochet items appear unfinished due to the uneven look of the sides. There are little “bulges” and “indents” that just don’t look as even (pretty) as the first or last rows and it can make an item look unappealing. To fix this, many patterns simply say, “Crochet Evenly Around”. What does that mean and how do you accomplish this?
What it means is that you need to crochet all the way around your piece, and place the stitches evenly around the edges so that there is an equal amount of stitches on both sides, and, of course, an equal amount on the top and bottom of your piece. You may have taken a stab at doing this only to end up with a ruffled edge, or too tight of an edge that makes your edges pull. But “crocheting evenly around” is actually easier than it seems. There are just a few simple rules to remember, but first let’s look at the example.
Step 1: When your piece is complete, you want to turn your work to start the edging (you can change colors at this point if your edging is to be a different color). Please note that it is best to make the first row of edging in single crochet, and then if you want to make a fancier edging, you’ll have a smooth base to work from. So, turn your work and single crochet to the end of the row. When you reach the end of the row, make 3 single crochet stitches in the corner – this is the First Rule of Thumb for this technique. This will “turn” around the corner so that you can start crocheting down the first side. Always crochet 3 stitches in the corners.
Step 2: The second rule of thumb to remember when crocheting the sides: The size of the stitch you are crocheting over determines how many stitches to crochet. In other words, if you are crocheting down the side of a single crochet, you will crochet 1 stitch over that single crochet stitch. If it were a half-double or double crochet, then you will need to crochet 2 stitches over them. And of course, if it is a triple crochet, you will crochet 3 single crochet stitches. Get it?
So if you have 10 rows of double crochet in your piece, when you’re working down the side, you would end up with 20 single crochet along the edge (2 stitches for each double crochet = 20 stitches) If you were crocheting along the edge of a piece that had 15 rows of single crochet, you would end up with 15 single crocheted stitches along the edge, and so on.
Here’s a little test: If you had a piece that had 30 rows, 10 of which were single crochet and the other 20 were half-double crochet, how many stitches should you have along the edge? Did you come up with 50? 10scx1=10sc and 20hdcx2=40sc 10+40=50sc)
Step 3: When you get to the end of the side edge, you will again place 3 single crochet stitches in the corner. You will now be at the bottom of your piece and you are going to single crochet along the bottom.
The third rule of thumb: when crocheting along the bottom, you will only crochet in the remaining loop of your initial chain. One single crochet for each loop is all that is needed. Crochet across to the next corner and place 3 single crochet stitches in the corner. You will now be turned to start crocheting down the other side.
Repeat step 2 for this side. When you reach the corner, add 2 single crochet stitches to the 1st single crochet made in your edging (so that there are 3 total) and slip stitch. If you are going to add a fancy, decorative border, or just want to add more rows to your edging, you will begin it here. Be sure to chain the correct amount for your next stitch for your next row as needed (1 for sc, 2 for dc, etc.). If you are just adding more “simple” crochet (sc, hdc, dc, tr), Always remember to place 3 stitches in the corner (this would be in the 2nd stitch of the 3 corner stitches).
And that is “Crochet Evenly Around”!
This sample was made with one row of double crochet and one row of half double crochet – the first row was made crocheting 5 dc (double crochet) and the second row was made crocheting 5 hdc (half double crochet). After the second row, ch 1 then turn and sc in each st across. 3 sc in corner stitch to turn.
You will then turn your piece and will have a ch 2 (sideways) as your first stitch to crochet into. Make 2 sc around/under (same thing) the ch 2.
The next stitch you come to is a dc. Note that a double crochet has two “halves” if you will. You will be inserting your hook into the “top” half of that stitch so that you are basically crocheting AROUND it or UNDER it (again, same thing) and sc 1.
Do the same thing on the “bottom” half of the dc.
Now you may see that there’s a “hole” formed by making this stitch. It’s actually not as bad as it looks in this picture. But if you want to avoid this, you can take a different approach by crocheting into the outermost “loop” of the dc, as shown here:
You will then be at the end of the row, so you will ch 3 into the corner and your piece will again turn. The first stitch you are looking at now is a ch 2 (this is your turning chain from the dc row). You will simply make 2 sc around the ch 2.
And then 2 more sc into (around/under) the last hdc.
And here is your finished sample with a completed border
By Corinne Munger
Read ORIGINAL POST HERE
Many crochet items appear unfinished due to the uneven look of the sides. There are little “bulges” and “indents” that just don’t look as even (pretty) as the first or last rows and it can make an item look unappealing. To fix this, many patterns simply say, “Crochet Evenly Around”. What does that mean and how do you accomplish this?
What it means is that you need to crochet all the way around your piece, and place the stitches evenly around the edges so that there is an equal amount of stitches on both sides, and, of course, an equal amount on the top and bottom of your piece. You may have taken a stab at doing this only to end up with a ruffled edge, or too tight of an edge that makes your edges pull. But “crocheting evenly around” is actually easier than it seems. There are just a few simple rules to remember, but first let’s look at the example.
Step 1: When your piece is complete, you want to turn your work to start the edging (you can change colors at this point if your edging is to be a different color). Please note that it is best to make the first row of edging in single crochet, and then if you want to make a fancier edging, you’ll have a smooth base to work from. So, turn your work and single crochet to the end of the row. When you reach the end of the row, make 3 single crochet stitches in the corner – this is the First Rule of Thumb for this technique. This will “turn” around the corner so that you can start crocheting down the first side. Always crochet 3 stitches in the corners.
Step 2: The second rule of thumb to remember when crocheting the sides: The size of the stitch you are crocheting over determines how many stitches to crochet. In other words, if you are crocheting down the side of a single crochet, you will crochet 1 stitch over that single crochet stitch. If it were a half-double or double crochet, then you will need to crochet 2 stitches over them. And of course, if it is a triple crochet, you will crochet 3 single crochet stitches. Get it?
So if you have 10 rows of double crochet in your piece, when you’re working down the side, you would end up with 20 single crochet along the edge (2 stitches for each double crochet = 20 stitches) If you were crocheting along the edge of a piece that had 15 rows of single crochet, you would end up with 15 single crocheted stitches along the edge, and so on.
Here’s a little test: If you had a piece that had 30 rows, 10 of which were single crochet and the other 20 were half-double crochet, how many stitches should you have along the edge? Did you come up with 50? 10scx1=10sc and 20hdcx2=40sc 10+40=50sc)
Step 3: When you get to the end of the side edge, you will again place 3 single crochet stitches in the corner. You will now be at the bottom of your piece and you are going to single crochet along the bottom.
The third rule of thumb: when crocheting along the bottom, you will only crochet in the remaining loop of your initial chain. One single crochet for each loop is all that is needed. Crochet across to the next corner and place 3 single crochet stitches in the corner. You will now be turned to start crocheting down the other side.
Repeat step 2 for this side. When you reach the corner, add 2 single crochet stitches to the 1st single crochet made in your edging (so that there are 3 total) and slip stitch. If you are going to add a fancy, decorative border, or just want to add more rows to your edging, you will begin it here. Be sure to chain the correct amount for your next stitch for your next row as needed (1 for sc, 2 for dc, etc.). If you are just adding more “simple” crochet (sc, hdc, dc, tr), Always remember to place 3 stitches in the corner (this would be in the 2nd stitch of the 3 corner stitches).
And that is “Crochet Evenly Around”!
This sample was made with one row of double crochet and one row of half double crochet – the first row was made crocheting 5 dc (double crochet) and the second row was made crocheting 5 hdc (half double crochet). After the second row, ch 1 then turn and sc in each st across. 3 sc in corner stitch to turn.
You will then turn your piece and will have a ch 2 (sideways) as your first stitch to crochet into. Make 2 sc around/under (same thing) the ch 2.
The next stitch you come to is a dc. Note that a double crochet has two “halves” if you will. You will be inserting your hook into the “top” half of that stitch so that you are basically crocheting AROUND it or UNDER it (again, same thing) and sc 1.
Do the same thing on the “bottom” half of the dc.
Now you may see that there’s a “hole” formed by making this stitch. It’s actually not as bad as it looks in this picture. But if you want to avoid this, you can take a different approach by crocheting into the outermost “loop” of the dc, as shown here:
You will then be at the end of the row, so you will ch 3 into the corner and your piece will again turn. The first stitch you are looking at now is a ch 2 (this is your turning chain from the dc row). You will simply make 2 sc around the ch 2.
And then 2 more sc into (around/under) the last hdc.
And here is your finished sample with a completed border
Thursday, 20 August 2015
Turned Hem Tutorial
Turned Hem Tutorial
07 Monday Jan 2013
Posted by Linden Down
Read the ORIGINAL POST HERE
My latest pattern Jacqueline features a turned stockinette hem on the sleeves and body and since this isn’t the most common technique I thought I would post a small tutorial on how to do it! Let’s dive right in!
Start by working a provisional cast-on with waste yarn.
I typically use a crochet cast-on.
Begin by chaining a couple of stitches.
Next you will start chaining onto your knitting needle. Place the knitting needle on top of the working yarn, hook the yarn and pull it through the loop on your hook over the knitting needle.
Move the working yarn back so that your knitting needle is again on top of the working yarn and continue until you have cast on the correct number of stitches.
Once you have the correct number of cast-on stitches, chain a few more stitches off of the needle. Your needle should look something like this.
Now you can start knitting with your project yarn into the cast-on stitches.
Jacqueline calls for you to work 5 rows in stockinette stitch, a turning row in which you break up the stockinette stitch with a row of purl bumps and cast-on additional stitches for the ribbing panel, and then 5 more rows in stockinette stitch (plus the ribbing section). So in the case of this pattern, your work should look something like this.
You now need to transfer those provisionally cast-on stitches to a needle so you can work with them. To do this, unravel the last stitch that you chained so that you can “unzip” your crochet chain and begin to pick up the live stitches that are now exposed.
To join the hem, fold the fabric at the turning row so that the wrong sides of the work are touching and the live stitches on both needles are aligned. On the next row, you are going to purl across, purling through the stitch on both needles for each stitch.
Here’s how the hem should look after you have consumed all of the provisionally cast-on stitches. There will be one less cast-on stitch than your working stitches, so you will purl one stitch from your working needle by itself (i.e. there is no cast on stitch for you to purl with it).
And from the front . . .
Here is your hem after a few more rows of knitting in pattern.
07 Monday Jan 2013
Posted by Linden Down
Read the ORIGINAL POST HERE
My latest pattern Jacqueline features a turned stockinette hem on the sleeves and body and since this isn’t the most common technique I thought I would post a small tutorial on how to do it! Let’s dive right in!
Start by working a provisional cast-on with waste yarn.
I typically use a crochet cast-on.
Begin by chaining a couple of stitches.
Next you will start chaining onto your knitting needle. Place the knitting needle on top of the working yarn, hook the yarn and pull it through the loop on your hook over the knitting needle.
Move the working yarn back so that your knitting needle is again on top of the working yarn and continue until you have cast on the correct number of stitches.
Once you have the correct number of cast-on stitches, chain a few more stitches off of the needle. Your needle should look something like this.
Now you can start knitting with your project yarn into the cast-on stitches.
Jacqueline calls for you to work 5 rows in stockinette stitch, a turning row in which you break up the stockinette stitch with a row of purl bumps and cast-on additional stitches for the ribbing panel, and then 5 more rows in stockinette stitch (plus the ribbing section). So in the case of this pattern, your work should look something like this.
You now need to transfer those provisionally cast-on stitches to a needle so you can work with them. To do this, unravel the last stitch that you chained so that you can “unzip” your crochet chain and begin to pick up the live stitches that are now exposed.
To join the hem, fold the fabric at the turning row so that the wrong sides of the work are touching and the live stitches on both needles are aligned. On the next row, you are going to purl across, purling through the stitch on both needles for each stitch.
Here’s how the hem should look after you have consumed all of the provisionally cast-on stitches. There will be one less cast-on stitch than your working stitches, so you will purl one stitch from your working needle by itself (i.e. there is no cast on stitch for you to purl with it).
And from the front . . .
Here is your hem after a few more rows of knitting in pattern.
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