Granny squares have fascinated and delighted crocheters for as long as I can remember.
During the 70's craft magazines were filled with granny square projects.
There was no shortage of ideas, either in fashion or decor.
At the time, the most popular yarn weight used was worsted and for the most part, acrylics.
What appealed to me about this design was the simplicity of the pattern.
You can virtually adapt this design to suit your every whim.
Personally, I like to keep it simple and let the yarn do the work.
This is where marls, tweed and multicoloured yarns are so good.
Whatever you pick, this design is fast, fun and fantastic.
Read further for more design inspiration, a free pattern and a video tutorial.
Colour is one of those topics that is intensely personal.
You are basically making two hexagons and sewing them together for the back and sleeves...
Here's one hexagon. See how it is all ruffly?
It's supposed to look like that.
It will fold up into this:
You will make two of them and sew the back seam.
"Hexagon" (Make Two):
Ch 6, join to make a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3. 2 dc in ring. *Ch 2, 3 dc in ring. Rep from * 4 more times. Ch 2. Join w/ sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch3. (6 groups of 3 dcs.)
Rnd 2: Sl st to ch 2 space. Ch 3, 2 dc in same space. Ch 2, 3 dc in same space. *Ch 2, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch 2 space. Rep from * 4 more times. Ch 2, join w/ sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch 3. (6 shells, 12 ch 2 spaces)
Rnd 3: Sl st to ch 2 space. Ch 3, 2 dc in same space. Ch 2, 3 dc in same space.*Ch 2, 3 dc in next ch 2 space. Ch 2, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next 'shell', or corner space. Rep from * 4 more times. Ch 2, join w/ sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch 3.
Rnd 4: Sl st to ch 2 space. Ch 3, 2 dc in same space. Ch 2, 3 dc in same space. *Ch 2, 3 dc in next ch 2 space. Ch 2 (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner space. Rep from * 4 more times. Ch 2, join w/ sl st to 3rd ch.
Repeat round 4, changing colors if you want a stripe. For this sweater, I switched to green in rounds 5-6, then back to yellow.
When you have 9 groups of 3 dc groups in between the corners, fasten off.
This is how it looked like she joined the back:
Either sl st to corner, or if you have already fastened off, join yarn in corner. Ch 3. 2 dc in same space. Ch 1, holding second hexagon with wrong sides facing, sc in corner space of second hexagon. Ch 1, 3 dc in same space of first hexagon. *Ch 1. Sc in next ch 2 space of second hexagon. Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 2 space of first hexagon. Repeat from * across. When you get to the last corner space, just do 3 dc in first hexagon, ch 1, sc in second hexagon. Fasten off.
Okay, for the sleeves, this is what she did: (Join like I just stated). Now, at sleeve edge, join w/ a sl st. *Ch 3, Sc in ch 2 space. Repeat from * to space marked, ending w/ a sc in space marked. Fasten off. Do the same for the second sleeve. (For the second sleeve, I joined in the space marked- by the neck edge, and worked to the sleeve edge so it was all on the right side.) I will come back and add more and redo all my pictures to match everything when I am done.
Collar: Join w/ a sl st in corner space of left side. Ch 3. *Dc in each dc, 2 dc in ch 2 space. Repeat from * around whole neck edge. In last corner space, do 1 dc. Turn work.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same space as ch 3 (increase). Dc in each dc acros to last dc (beg ch 3 of previous row), 2 dc in top ch of beg ch 3. Turn work.
Row 3-5: Repeat row 2. Fasten off @ end of row 5.
Sleeve: With sleeve laying flat, find halfway point from ending off point. (You will be starting at the bottom of the sleeve, in the middle of row, so to speak... hope that makes sense...)
Join w/ sl st in 3rd dc of a 3 dc group to left of 'halfway point'.
Round 1: Ch 3. *Dc in ch 2 space. Dc in 2st dc of 3 dc group, skip 2nd dc, dc in 3rd dc, rep from * around, working a dc in each ch 2 space by joinging seam. To end, dc in 1st dc of last 3 dc group. Skip last 2 dc, join w/ sl st to top of beg ch 3.
*Note for round 2 (You will be doing fpdc and bpdc around stitches round 1, hopefully you know how to do this but I will *try* to explain it a little.... don't know if it will be much help, but...)
Round 2: Putting hook in back of 1 st dc of round 1, make a sl st around dc, ch 3. Now put hook around back of next dc, make a dc around this stitch. *Fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st, rep from * around. Join w/ sl st to beg ch 3.
Round 3: Going around 1st dc of prev round, sl st. Ch 2. Fpdc around fpdc's, bpdc around bpdc's. Join.
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in 1st st. Sc next two together, sc in next stich; ending w/ sc in last 2 sts. Join and fasten off. (I added this round to kind of bring the sleeve edge in more. It seemed too loose to me.) Repeat for second sleeve.
Bottom edge: With bottom of sweater facing you, join w/ a sl st to left handed corner space (left side of sweater front). Ch 5. *3 dc in ch 2 space, ch 2. Repeat from *; when you get to the back seam, do 3 dc's over the back two spaces. Repeat as you were, ending w/ ch 2, dc in corner space. Turn work.
Row 2: Ch 3. 2 dc in same space. *Ch 2, 3 dc in next ch 2 space. Repeat from *, ending w/ 2 dc in last space, and dc in 3rd ch of beg ch 5.
Now she made a tie (chains) around the neck and wove it through the last row of granny type stitches. She also did a Solomon's Knot type edging all around bottom edge and sides of front edges of sweater. I think I am going to do a simple sc edging, and make a loop at top neck edge to button the top part.
Knit Purl Hunter Video Lessons
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For your convenience all Knit Purl Hunter video lessons are listed here in alphabetical order. Just click on any of the titles below to view that post’s video. If you prefer to view a list of my video lessons by category click here
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I decided to make another tutorial for this joining method because I get so many questions about it, and it’s soooo great! I have given a lot of linky love to the cyber-folks that I learned from, and you can see those links in my original tutorial. I also have a “main page” about the CJAYG – see it here.
This tutorial has slightly different methods from my original tutorial because I did a Slip Stitch join instead of a “twist” join like in the pink Sunburst Granny Square blanket from the original.
Since I am making a cushion cover here, I thought it would be perfect since I could capture the whole process in one photo frame for a *hopefully* easier-to-understand visual.
Also, this picture that I lifted off of the CrochetCabana.comwebsite shows a SCARY visual of the path that we will be taking with this join. It is super-scary, but once you get it, it’s a great visual aid.
PATTERN NOTES/TERMS:
US Terminology, Worsted weight yarn remnants, K/6.5mm hook
When I say “space” I mean “chain space”
Ch-n = Chain n times
SC = Single crochet, DC = Double crochet, TR = Treble crochet
{Magic Ring, Rnd 1: 12 (DC, Ch-1) in ring, Rnd 2: (2DC, Ch-1) in every space, Rnd 3: (3DC, Ch-1) in every space}
BEGIN CONTINUOUS JOIN:
This join is made in one continuous movement from start to finish, so please make sure you have enough yarn to complete your entire blanket join – all motifs (if possible).
Pick up your first circle and attach the joining yarn with a Slst in any space. (SC, Ch-4, 3TR) all in same space. Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) all in next space, Ch-1 (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, 3TR in next space, Ch-2.
See my cute and sporty pink and black scissors in the photo below? You are now at the top of the handle.
**NOTE: If you work this exactly as I have told you (and as the scary visual aid up above shows), you will NOT end up in the corner of your piece when you join and finish off or work another round plain. I like to start and end up in a corner. To do that, locate my starting point in the photo below, count 3 spaces to the right of that spot, and attach your yarn there instead. Work 3 sides instead of 2 as I have done, and you will end up in the same spot at the top of the scissors handle, but you’ll have the top edge of the circle worked, too. I wish I’d done it, but I didn’t. Hmph.
Pick up the next motif, 3TR in any space, position your circle with the 3TR on either side of the Ch-2 end to end like I have in the photo and Slst in the space across the way (this is a joining maneuver). The Slst here also replaces your Ch-1. (3DC in the next space on your motif-in-progress, Slst in the space across) twice, (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) in next space. Now, you are at the edge up and to the left of the scissors handle. Notice I did not join corners. I don’t do it yet because I like for diagonal corners to “reach” out to each other in the form of an X. I’ll get to that later.
Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) in next space, Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, 3TR in next space, Ch-2. Now you are at the same point as I am in the photo below.
Pick up your next motif and work in the same way beginning from under the line of asterisks that you see above. You can see that I end up at a Ch-2. My motif grid is only 3×3, so this Ch-2 marks the end of my motif row. No matter how many motifs you have, you will work across them, doing 3 sides in this manner and this is where you will end up at the end – working only 2 sides on the last motif.
The next motif that you join will be in the position of the pink circle with the turquoise center in the photo below.
Pick up the motif and work 3TR in any space. Slst in the space across (this is the same joining method from before), (3DC in the next space, Slst in the space to join) twice, 3TR in the next space. Ch-1, Slst in the Ch-2 corner space that is located diagonally (to the upper left).
Pick up your next motif (for me it is the center motif), 3TR in any space, Slst to join, (3DC in next space, Slst to join) twice, 3TR in next space, Ch-1, Slst in diagonal Ch-2 corner space. Now, you are where I am in the photo below.
You can see that I leave the *other* corner hangin’ out waiting to be picked up. I’ll get to that.
Pick up your next motif (in my case it is the orange-edge one. 3TR in any space, Slst to join, (3DC in next space, Slst to join) twice, 3TR in next space. Now, you are meeting the place where you started (unless you were industrious and wanted to start in the corner of the piece, of course).
Slst in the Ch-4 space and Ch-1. 3TR in the same space to complete the corner, Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) all in next space. Now you are where I am in the photo below.
Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, 3TR in the same space as the next 3TR.
Here’s where we do some corner magic.
Release the loop from the hook. Insert your hook in the corner that’s still hangin’ out un-picked-up from before, put the loop back on your hook, Now you are where I am in the photo below.
Pull the loop through that corner space and make a chain. Ch-1 again just to give yourself some space to do your next move.
Release the loop from your hook again and insert your hook in the corner as it is shown in the photo below. Put the loop back on the hook. Now you are where I am in the photo below.
In the photo above, my hook is under everything. When you pull that loop through where you have your hook inserted, make a chain. Ch-1 again. 3TR in the space where your 3TR is in the next motif down (mine is the center motif) and Slst to join. Now you are where I am in the photo below.
Admire your beautiful corner.
Fast-forwarding here, I’ll just say the next part is nothing new. Slst to join, notice that the corners at the upper right of the photo below are unworked because this is not my final motif row. I’ll be picking those corners up just like I did on this row. In the photo below, you are ready to pick up your next motif which for me will be the one located above the pink motif with the turquoise center. You have chained 2 and you’re ready to go.
Pick up your next motif and 3TR in any space (for me this was the dark blue motif with the purple center shown in the bottom right of the photo below). Work just like you did before, joining your motifs on, picking up diagonal corners, and leaving the other corner to hang out. I’ve shown this all below.
At the end of the row, you will Slst in the outer Ch-2 space, Ch-1, and 3TR in the same space to complete the corner. Again, you pick up this corner because it’s on the final perimeter of the piece.
In the photo below, I have worked my zig-zag back down my piece, completing my corners. Review the photos above.
For me, this is my last row of motifs, so now, when I come back down the side, I won’t be attaching more motifs.
All of my outside corners are now joined as well as you can see in the upper right of the photo.
Where I am in the photo below is as follows:
You will make the (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) corner as shown in the upper left of the piece. Work the usual 3DC groups and 3TR in the same space as the other 3TR to complete the corner. Now you are where I am in the photo below.
At this point, Ch-1, Slst in Ch-2 space, Ch-1, and 3TR in same space as previous 3TR to complete corner. This is a complete make-shift join here. It’s a substitution for the real thing, since we did the continuous join.
3DC in the spaces with the Ch-1 in between, and work your way around the blanket – this is the home stretch.
In the photo below, you are done! Join with a Slst in the second chain directly above the beginning SC.
As you can see, you don’t end up in a corner. You can cut yarn and re-attach in a corner, but I’m not keen on breaking yarn when I don’t absolutely have to.
I worked SC, Ch-1, decrease 2 DC together over the next two spaces, DC in second corner space – If you are confused here, please refer to the Bunny Mummy tutorial on how to make an edge on a granny square blanket that does not ripple/ruffle.
(3DC, Ch-1) in all spaces around, performing your Bunny Mummy trick in the points where you have two grannies meeting. This can be seen in the photo below as the funny-looking 3DC toward the upper left…..
At this point, feel free to SC around, making 3SC in the corners, and then make a reverse SC round.
Make another identical side, sew them together with right sides together (leaving one side open), make Ch-2 loops as button holes down one side of the opening, sew buttons down the other side, shove a 20-22″ pillow in, close your buttons up, and call it a night!
Tunisian crochet combines the best of knitting and crochet – it’s got a hook like crochet, but it also keeps several stitches on the hook, like knitting. You can achieve many different stitches and effects, and even combine it with regular crochet. To make room for all those stitches, most Tunisian crochet is done with a special, long hook or a small hook on a cable. If you’d like to try the technique with just a few stitches, you can use a standard crochet hook with a straight shaft.
The key difference with Tunisian crochet is that one row is made up of two parts: a ‘forward pass’ (where you pick up the stitches onto the hook) and a ‘reverse pass’ (where you work them off the hook again). This means there’s usually no need to turn your work – keep the right side facing you. Patterns usually write the two passes as one row, but they can be written in different ways, so always check before you start.
Rows of traditional Tunisian crochet have a woven look on the right side and a wavy-looking wrong side. The fabric is quite dense, which makes it great for warm garments and blankets.
Once you know the basics, you can work all sorts of different Tunisian stitches and achieve a variety of colour effects. Stripes are the simplest, but there are many more possibilities.
It’s easy to get started working Tunisian crochet…
Just like when you’re working regular crochet, you need to work a foundation chain first. In Tunisian crochet, you also need to work a whole foundation row made up of a forward and return pass. This foundation row nearly always remains the same, regardless of the type of Tunisian stitch you are using. Work the foundation chain and foundation row (forward pass) as follows:
Make a chain of the same length as the number of stitches you want to work. For a practice swatch, ch15. Keep the tension loose, but not so loose that it distorts the edge of your fabric.
To begin the ‘forward pass’ of your foundation row, *insert the hook into the second chain from the hook:
Then yrh and pull the yarn through the chain and onto the hook:
You will now have 2 loops on your hook. Repeat the same action from * for the next chain along.
Continue working in the same way for each chain, putting one stitch onto the hook for each chain, until you have worked into the last chain – do not work into the slipknot at the end.
When you’ve finished the forward pass, you should have one loop on the hook for each chain you started with – with a chain of 15, there should be 15 loops on the hook.
How do I work the return pass?
To complete your foundation row, you now need to work the ‘return pass’, which works the loops back off the hook. This return pass is also used as the return part of the row for many basic Tunisian stitches, and you will see it referred to as the ‘Standard’ or ‘Basic’ return pass. You will have your stitches on the hook with the right side of the work facing you. Do not turn – you will be working back along the row from left to right.
Yrh and pull the hook through the first loop on the hook only:
In patterns, this is sometimes called ‘ch1’, because the action is exactly the same as making 1 chain stitch.
*Yrh and draw the yarn through the next 2 loops on the hook:
Repeat the process from * across the row, working yrh and pull through 2 loops at a time, until there is one loop remaining on the hook. You will have completed the return pass, and the loop left on your hook will make the first stitch of the next row.
How do I work Tunisian simple stitch?
After working the foundation row (forward and return pass), you can choose which Tunisian stitches to work next. We’ll show you how to work the basic Tunisian Simple Stitch.
With the right side of the work facing you, identify the vertical strands of yarn that were created in the forward pass of the foundation row. Skip the strand on the outside edge of the work and *insert the hook from right to left underneath the next vertical strand:
Yrh and draw the yarn through the vertical strand of yarn:
You will now have 2 loops on the hook:
Repeat the process from * by inserting the hook underneath the next vertical strand, yrh and draw through in the same way.
Keep going until you have worked into all the strands across the row, except for the last strand on the outside edge of the work. Up to this point, you have been inserting the hook into the front of the vertical loops that were created on the previous row, but there is also a corresponding strand at the back for each loop. For the last stitch of the row, insert your hook underneath the front and back of the loop on the outside edge, so there are two strands on the hook:
Yrh and pull through as before. This creates a firm edge, which mirrors the appearance of the edge on the other side .
With the forward pass complete, you can work the standard return pass (as explained earlier), without turning the work.
How do I finish off my work?
Your work should now look like this after one foundation row and one row of Tunisian Simple Stitch (forward and return pass):
Work in Tunisian Simple Stitch for as many rows as you need to create your fabric:
When you want to finish your work, complete the return pass of the final row. You could just fasten off at this point, or create a neater edge with a final forward pass of slip stitches. To do this, insert your hook under the next vertical strand, skipping the one on the outside edge as before:
Yrh and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook. Repeat across the row to form a neat slip stitch edge:
You may notice that Tunisian fabric tends to curl more than regular crochet. Here are a few ideas to get a flatter fabric:
1 Use a hook larger than you usually would for the yarn you’re using, such as 5mm instead of 4mm for DK-weight yarn.
2 Work into the ‘back bumps’ of the foundation chain, to help the foundation row to lie flatter.
3 It’s a good idea to tighten up the first stitch of the forward pass because the tension tends to be looser on that side of the row.
4 A firm wet blocking (where your yarn allows) will help to smooth out the fabric.
5 Work an edging of double crochet stitches all the way around your finished fabric to help stabilise it and make it lie flat.
How do I change colour?
One of the easiest ways to add interest to Tunisian Simple Stitch is to try a little colourwork. You can change colour at either end of the row, to create stripes and other colour effects.
To create solid stripes, you’ll need to change colour for the start of the forward pass, which means picking up the new colour in the last yrh of the reverse pass:
Work in the new colour for the forward and return pass:
Pick up the old colour in the last yrh of the reverse pass, to create a striped effect on the next row.
A more interesting effect is to change colour at the beginning of the reverse pass. To do this, work the whole forward pass in the old colour, then pick up the new colour in the ‘ch1’ at the beginning of the reverse pass:
This will avoid a ‘jog’ in the colour stripes at this end of the row. Continue the reverse pass in the usual way to the end of the row:
You can either switch back to the old colour on the last yrh of the reverse pass, or continue in the new colour for the following forward pass. You could change back to the old colour at the start of the next reverse pass. This form of striped colourwork brings out the woven look of the fabric, with the vertical strands of the forward pass clearly visible against the contrasting colour of the reverse pass.
