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Showing posts with label Patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Patterns. Show all posts

Tuesday, 1 August 2017

Mochi Plus Shell Lace Stole

Designed & Knit by Barbara Breiter

https://web.archive.org/web/20161207054124/http://www.straw.com/cpy/patterns2/accessories/MochiPlus-ShellStole.html

This beautiful lace shawl is knit in a wonderfully soft, slow striping Mochi Plus yarn. The rectangle design means no shaping so the simple lace pattern is easy to work and it is knit in the lengthwise direction.

Sizes:
Prior to blocking: 67" wide x 20" long
After blocking: 70" wide x 22" long

Gauge:
3.5 sts=1" in St st

Materials:
Crystal Palace Bamboo 35" Circular Size 11 US (8 mm)
8-50 gr balls Crystal Palace Yarns Mochi Plus #553 Violets Rainbow

Instructions
CO 238 sts.
K 2 rows, slipping first st of every row.
Begin pattern Rows 1-12 below, slipping first st, k the next two sts, work pattern to last 3 sts, k3 every row.
Row 1 (WS) and all WS Rows: Purl.
Row 2: K2tog, *k5, yo, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 4: K2tog, *k4, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 6: K2tog, *k3, yo, k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 8: K2tog, *k2, yo, k1, yo, k5, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 10: K2tog, *k1, yo, k3, yo, k4, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 12: K2tog, * yo, k5, yo, k3, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.

Rep Rows 1-12 6 more times; stole should measure about 20" long.
P 2 rows.
BO knitwise loosely.
Block.

Designed by Barbara Breiter - visit her site for many more patterns - www.knitabit.net

Crystal Palace Yarns 160 23rd St, Richmond, CA 94804
phone: 510-237-9988, fax: 510-237-9809 email: cpyinfo -@- straw.com

copyright 2009 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. - We are happy to share this free knitting pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format or elsewhere on the Web without permission. Knitting shops carrying CP Yarns Mochi Plus are welcome to print and share this pattern with customers of our yarns.












Sunday, 15 November 2015

How to increase stitches in pattern - Knitting - Design

One of the most challenging things in knitting is how to increase stitches in pattern.

Understanding the technique will give you a clue to designing your own knitting patterns.

Look at the images carefully.















SOURCE HERE







Friday, 25 September 2015

How to knit a cardigan - Free Pattern

by Carol Feller





READ ORIGINAL POST HERE


PATTERN HERE






How to knit a summer top - Free pattern

Siesta by Carol Feller








Siesta is a summer top that combines classic simplicity with an elegant twist. Created from Debbie Bliss Prima, the 80% bamboo content gives a smooth silky feel to the top with wonderful drape while the addition of wool give a bit more spring.

Knit from the top down with raglan shoulder shaping, there is smooth transition between cables from the neck line where they are small and delicate, a chunkier cable at the bustline leading finally to two cables slowly travelling outwards to each side until you reach the bottom of the piece.

The sides of the piece are also gently shaped at the waist to show off your curves. All edgings are finished using applied I-cord for a smooth and subtle finish.

Enjoy this fast and fun knit.


READ ORIGINAL POST HERE

PATTERN HERE



Sunday, 23 August 2015

Raspberry Sherbet

Raspberry Sherbet

Afghan Schematics are for those who already have some experience in crochet.
The afghans were all made using a Basic Round Ripple afghan pattern.
The variations of each afghan is listed in the "Afghan Schematics" found on the individual photo page of each afghan.

Read the ORIGINAL POST HERE






This post show the photos and lists the materials used for this afghan and also a description or "Schematic" of how it was created.

To find The basic Round Ripple Afghan pattern click HERE

Size: about 56 inches diameter

Gauge: N/A

Materials: Caron Simply Soft Yarn 12 oz soft Pink (Color A) 6 oz Vanilla (Color B) 6 oz Harvest Rose (Color C) 2 oz Dark Sage (Color D)

Susan Bates Hook US size J / 10 Metric size 6

Extra Special Stitches: 
Crossed double crochet = The crossed dc is worked over an area of two stitches.
To begin, *(skip the next stitch, make a double crochet in the following stitch, make a double crochet in the skipped stitch, skip 2 sts, dc in next st.) around.
Slip Stitch Vine
Buttons and Leaves
Leaves

Afghan Schematics: The directive details for the changes in the rounds. 
Follow the basic pattern, this entire afghan is worked in double crochet stitches
Round 1 - 17: color A
Round 18 - 19: color B
Round 20: color C
Round 21 - 22: Color B
Round 23 - 26: Color A
Round 27 - 32: Color C
Round 33 - 34: Color B
Round 35: Color A crossed double crochet stitch or regular double crochet, your choice.
Round 36 - 37: Color B
Round 38 - 41: Color C working round making large shell in all points





Border Round
42: Using Color B Start in 2nd stitch at bottom of any point; *sc, ch 3, work picot, sk 1 st, sc in next st* to point. Two sc, with picot in point, work in pattern down left side of point, skipping the two center stitches at the bottom of the points work around,
Join end off.
Work in ends

Heart shape Leaf pattern (or use leaf pattern of choice)


Using color D, start with magic circle, Sl st in ring chain 4, 5 tr, 5 dc, ch 3, sl st in first ch to form picot, 5 dc, 5 tr, chain 4 sl st, all in ring.
Pull yarn tail and draw ring tightly closed.
Tie, work in ends
Make 12

Flower pattern (or use crochet flower of choice.)


Using color A start with magic circle. or adjustable loop Sl st in ring, chain 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl in ring; repeat three more times, join to first st for 4 petal flower.
 Pull yarn tail to close center of flower, tie.
Do not trim yarn.
Use yarn tail to form shank of button or if you prefer to sew on the flower,
the next step may be eliminated and you may use the yarn tail to sew the button.
To create shank on button: Lay crochet hook on back of button.
Stitch across hook several times to form shank of button.
Secure yarn tail and remove hook
Make 12.


Vine
This afghan has 12 flowers and leaves but more may be added if desired.
Flowers and leaves may be sewn on or you may secure them with a slip stitch,
such as you would apply beads, while the vine is crocheted onto the afghan.


To crochet leaves and flowers in place:


With Color D and working on front of afghan Join yarn in first space between rows 29 and 30. You will add leaves or flowers in the same method
you would add a bead. Slip stitch in each space to 3 sps before point.
Thread yarn through center of leaf and complete sc.
Sc in next two spaces. Thread yarn through shank of button flower and complete sc. Slip Stitch in each sp to bottom of point.
Sc in both spaces at bottom of point and continue around.
Put leaf and flower button on each point. End off, work in yarn ends.

Photo Tutorial So Simple Box Stitch Shawl

Photo Tutorial So Simple Box Stitch Shawl

Shawl Pattern is here.


Read the ORIGINAL POST HERE

For this tutorial, I changed colors, only so you can see the placement of the stitches, I did not take time to work in yarn ends, please ignore the sloppy color change.
This is a two row pattern repeat worked until the desired size is achieved. The first few rows are displayed here as a visual assistance to getting a proper start.


You may wish to start with chain 6, sl st in first ch to form ring. You may also use an adjustable loop. I started with an adjustable loop, chain 3 (counts as first dc, throughout), 3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc all in loop. Pull adjustable loop closed, ch 1, turn. You have 8 dc with a 2 ch space in the middle.


Work 1 sc between the first and second dc, ch 3; work (sc, ch 3, sc) in the center 2 ch space, (this makes a loop in the center space) ch 3, single crochet between seventh and eighth double crochet, turn .


Ch 3 (counts as first double crochet), 3 dc in first single crochet. Work 3 dc in the 3 chain space, and work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the loop (to make the point) Once you have the point, work 3 dc in the next 3 chain space and then put 4 dc in the last sc stitch. Ch 1, turn.

NOTE:
You will always have 4 dc at the beginning and 4 dc at the ending of the double crochet row.


Work 1 sc between the first and second dc, chain 3, sk 3 dc and sc between the stitches to create 3 dc groups, to the point. In the ch 2 space at the point work (sc, ch 3, sc) to form a loop, then ch 3 working across the rest of the row, where your last sc should be between the last 2 dc. Turn


Ch 3, work 3 dc in the first sc stitch, work 3 dc in each 3 chain space to point, work 3 dc, ch 2 , 3 dc in point, 3 dc in each 3 ch space to end, 4 dc in last sc stitch, ch 1, turn.


Work 1 sc between the first and second dc, chain 3, sk 3 dc and sc between the stitches to create 3 dc groups, to the point. In the point will work sc, ch 3 sc to form a loop, then ch 3 and work the second side where you last sc should be between the last 2 dc. Ch 3 turn

NOTES:
On every double crochet row you will ch 3, then work 3 dc in the first (sc) stitch to add a 4 dc cluster to the beginning of the row; you will end with 4 dc in the last (sc) stitch to add a 4 dc cluster to the end of the row.

On every single crochet row, you will be working between the double crochet stitches of the previous row, beginning between the first 2 dc, creating 3 dc groups across the row, working a 3 chain loop (sc, chain 3, sc) in the center point following the pattern across the rest of the row with the ending sc between the last 2 dc

As your shawl grows the edge will start to gently curve into a “hug” position.

You may work as many rows and colors as you wish and when you decide it is the size you like you can add the border of your choice or none at all. I always end on the single crochet and chain stitch row before I start a crochet border. Then I count loops not stitches. The exception would be for fringe where you may wish to end on a double crochet row to give a solid base for the fringe.

I posted 3 different borders or you may make up your own.

As you work the weight of the yarn will pull your edges straight, just be careful you do not start your beginning stitches too loose or snug.


Simple Box Stitch Shawl

Thursday, July 11, 2013
So Simple Box Stitch Shawl

Read the ORIGINAL POST HERE

This is a simple shawl pattern, similar to the popular Granny Square Triangle Shawl. Made with the Box Stitch Pattern it does not display all of the holes of a true Granny Square Stitch. It is worked with worsted weight yarn and it is what I would consider a very generous size shawl for those of us who dislike bare arms and want lots of coverage.

Row 1: chain 6, sl st in first st to form ring. Or start with Adjustable Loop Row 2: chain 3, 3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc in ring, ch 1, turn ( 8 dc) Row 3: sc in space between first 2 dc, chain 3, sc in ch 2 space, ch 3, sc in same space, (point made) ch 3, sc between last 2 dc, turn.


Row 4: ch 3, 3 dc in first single crochet, (this adds a new cluster to the beginning of each dc row) 3 dc in ch 3 space across row to the 3 chain loop (point) work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in loop, 3 dc in next 3 ch sp, across row ending with 4 dc in last single crochet, turn. Your shawl will gradually form a natural curve at the ends as double crochet rows are added. Row 5: ch 1, sc between first 2 dc, chain 3, skipping 3 dc, work a sc between the dc stitches forming groups of 3 dc clusters, to the point. In the point work sc, ch 3, sc all in the same space, ch 3, continuing to form 3 dc clusters to end of row, ending with ch 3, sc between last 2 dc, turn.


Repeat: rows 4 and 5 until you have 28 double crochet rows.

For additional Photo tutorial on how to get started: idealdelusions

Depending on your choice of border you may wish to work row 5 one more time to take advantage of the 3 ch loops as a base for the border.

I love a basic fringe for a border; of course, as always, you may add the border of your choice or none at all.

On this shawl I wanted to make it a bit more fancy so I adapted the border from Doris Chan’s “All Shawl” which can be found in her free pattern on Ravelry.

If you wish to add the same border I did, you need the All Shawl pattern by Doris Chan.

If you observe the pattern you will notice it alternates shell patterns with pineapples.

I ended my shawl on a single crochet row so I would have the chain 3 loops to work in, instead of the double crochet stitches.

I wanted a pineapple stitch to be at the center of the point, so starting at the point, instead of counting as 1, 2, 3, I counted the point loop as a pineapple, space, shell, space, pineapple, space, shell, space pineapple, etc.. until I got to the beginning of the row.

It so happened on my shawl the first loop would be a shell. I then began on the second row of the border (see the mark for row 2 on the left side of the graph on the top of page 9 on the All Shall Pattern)

I followed that graph and I chained 3, ((but I worked a double crochet in the same stitch (see red arrow) on my photo below because I wanted a solid edge) then I worked chain 1, double crochet shell, ch 1, skipped a loop, triple crochet set, (to start pineapple) skipped a loop, worked a dc shell, skipped a loop...repeat to the point.

In the point I worked the triple crochet set for the pineapple, then starting up the other side I skipped the next ch 3 loop and worked a shell, skip a loop, start triple crochets for the pineapple. When I got to the end of the row I chained 1 and worked 2 double crochet in the last stitch. There you have the base for the border.

 NOTE: If the the base for the border seems a bit tight for your shawl, try putting 2 chain stitches between each shell and pineapple stitch instead of just 1 as you work across each row.

Follow the graph rows 3 – 6 working shell in shell stitches and pineapple stitches required for each pineapple to complete your border.
Page 8 gives a close up detail of how the finished pattern should look.

I received an email that said, in part: “I finally got it worked out but not starting with a shell but a space. I am glad I counted the pattern back to the start and not assumed mine was the same as yours. I took advantage and made my edging border begin with ch 3,dc,dc, in the first 3 stitches. Then did a shell in the next loop. It worked out great and the pineapple hit the point loop. I finished the row with 3 dc in the last 3 stitches. That really gave me a nice straight edge for the border all the way through. I found the graph a bit confusing as well. How you applied it to your pattern made perfect sense to me.






This shawl is displayed spread out on a standard double size bed.



This is the same shawl and the third and last view for this post. I selected what I thought was a 16 ounce “mill end” bag of powder blue sports weight yarn, that I purchased at A. C. Moore for this version of the shawl. I used a simple “V” stitch border with a picot in the last round to soften the edge and it was worked with a size “J” Susan Bates hook. I like to use a large hook with a light yarn for a softer, flexible feel to the finished item. I do have to crochet slower as it is more difficult to maintain an even tension with an oversized hook..
I am delighted how it came out and also surprised. I expected it to be smaller than the others because of a lighter weight yarn but it is in fact larger. Why ? I didn’t know so I weighed the shawl. It would appear I acquired a very generous mill end bag that was actually 18 ounces and not the expected 16. The shawl is about 47 inches from the shoulder to the point and it is about 94 inches wide. I do not have a place where I can spread it out flat and take a photo of it but I did get a few photos and close-ups.

This shawl can also be made in any size from a shoulderette to as large as you like.
I, myself, love an oversized shawl as I like generous arm coverage.

When the shawl is as large as you want it you can add the border of your choice.


To make the border on this shawl, I stopped the basic shawl pattern on a single crochet and chain stitch row, reference (row 5), turn..

Border Pattern Stitch double crochet, chain 2, dc in same space. “V” stitch made

Row 1 Ch 3, dc in first stitch (for a solid edge) dc, ch 2, dc in the next 3 chain loop (counts as first “V” st,) work 1 “V” st in each 3 chain space to point. Work (“V” st, chain 3, “V” st) in the 3 chain loop at the point, continue, working 1 “V” stitch in each 3 chain loop to end, work 2 dc in last stitch. Turn

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in first dc, “V” stitch in center of each “V” stitch, to point. Work “V” st, chain 3, “V” st in the center space of the point, “V” st in each “V” st to end. 2 dc in last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 to make your border the width you like (This shawl has a border 5 rows deep)

Picot stitch: Double crochet in center of “V” st, chain 3, slip st in first chain of chain 3, dc in same “V” stitch = "V" st with picot on top..

Final round Work "V" st with picot, in the center of each “V” st of the previous row, working (dc, picot, dc, picot, dc, picot, dc) in the center chain space of the point, work “V” st with picot in the center of each “V” st to end, 2 dc in last stitch.


To help you plan ahead, this shawl had 35 double crochet rows, 35 sc / chain stitch rows and 5 rows “V” stitches for the border. When I finished this shawl I had only about 7 inches of yarn left, it was that close.

Yes, I know I said the blue shawl would be the last one I posted for this pattern but today I want to talk about “Caron Simply Soft Party Yarn”. Since I did add a little something extra to the design I thought I would just sneak it in on this same post. The color of this shawl is Silver Sparkle but there is a nice selection of other colors and I loved working with this soft, shiny yarn. I think it made an elegant shawl. Modest but has a discreet sparkle that can be worn day or evening. This shawl is a bit smaller and is more for dress up than a heavy duty working shawl.


I worked the pattern until I had completed the first 5 rows of double crochet groups. On the next row instead of single crochet, I worked a double crochet and chain stitch row.
So the row would be worked as ch 3, dc between first 2 dc, chain 3, skipping 3 dc, work a dc between the dc stitches forming groups of 3 dc clusters, to the point. In the point work dc, ch 3, dc all in the same space, ch 3, continuing to form 3 dc clusters to end of row, ending with ch 3, dc between last 2 dc, turn.
The following row, I resumed the pattern of double crochet groups stitches and worked as per the pattern.

On this shawl I put my space row after each set of 5 double crochet rows. To do this I inserted the row of double crochet and chain 3 stitches instead of single crochet and chain 3, then resume the pattern. The height of the double crochet stitches are what make the spaces. You can put the spaces rows anywhere you want them.

The border on the Gray Sparkle Shawl is also an adaption of the border created by Doris Chan for her All Shawl Pattern. It is the same as the border on the first shawl shown on this post.
The information and link and my adaption notes are listed above with the pattern instructions.