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| Copyright: Martina Behm |
Showing posts with label Math 2 Knit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Math 2 Knit. Show all posts
Saturday, 28 November 2015
Maggie Shawl Calculator
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
This post has a calculator to create a customized pattern for this shawl shape. If you enter the width you want and the gauge you achieve, this program will provide specific directions and estimate yardage requirements that for you.1
Easy construction: This is a modified double triangle shawl; the knitter starts by casting on 1 stitch.
After that, she increases twice each row: once at the beginning and once near the center.
After knitting “a while”, the knitter begins to increase 2 stitches at the beginning; this causes the shawl to have long “tails” which curl and appear to require sophisticated shaping.
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| Copyright Lucia Liljegren 2007 |
Easy construction: This is a modified double triangle shawl; the knitter starts by casting on 1 stitch.
After that, she increases twice each row: once at the beginning and once near the center.
After knitting “a while”, the knitter begins to increase 2 stitches at the beginning; this causes the shawl to have long “tails” which curl and appear to require sophisticated shaping.
Triangular Shawl Calculator
(c) Bex Hopkins 2010
READ ORIGINAL POSTS HERE and
HERE
Here’s a little way to calculate the maximum number of rows you can work on a shawl (top down shawls only).
You need to have knitted at least 20% of your yarn to do get an accurate answer, though it will return a result with more than 10% yarn used.
READ ORIGINAL POSTS HERE and
HERE
Here’s a little way to calculate the maximum number of rows you can work on a shawl (top down shawls only).
You need to have knitted at least 20% of your yarn to do get an accurate answer, though it will return a result with more than 10% yarn used.
About the math of calculating your knitting progress on triangular shawls
by slowknits
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
Take your total numer of rows (in my case 204) and multiply by the total number of stitches at the longest row (471) and you get the total number of stitches your shawl requires.
Total rows = 204
Total sts at last (longest) row = 471
204 * 471 = 96,084
Divide that by 2 and you get the total number of stitches you need to knit to make the shawl.
96,084 / 2 = 48,042
Total rows = 204
Total sts at last (longest) row = 471
204 * 471 = 96,084
Divide that by 2 and you get the total number of stitches you need to knit to make the shawl.
96,084 / 2 = 48,042
Now take the number of rows you've knitted, say 165, and the number of stitches on the needle, about 385 (I may be off a couple of stitches but you get the idea) and do the same.
Multiply the current row by the current stitches, divide the result by two and you'll get the number of stitches you have knitted so far.
Multiply the current row by the current stitches, divide the result by two and you'll get the number of stitches you have knitted so far.
165 * 385 = 63,140 / 2 = 31,570
Now divide the current stitches by the total stitches to get your progress so far:
31,570 / 48,042 = 0.65 (65%)
To put this into a formula where CR = Current rows, Cs = Current stitches, TCs = Total Current stitches, Tr = Total rows, Ts = Total stitches, TOs = Total Overall stitches, P = progress:
(Cr * Cs) / 2 = TCs
(Tr * Ts) / 2 = TOs
TCs / TOs = P
Triangle Shawls and fun with algebra
by madorville
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
While knitting a triangular shawl where one starts with 7 stitches (ignore the set-up rows which use a trivial amount of yarn in the grand scheme of things) and increases four stitches every right side row, if N is the number of rows that have been knit then the total number of stitches done is N² + 5N. (now that I think about it, I am guessing one could derive this from a simple area of triangle formula.)
How does one use this delightfully compact formula? Well, I have knit 10 pattern repeats so far. With 26 rows to prepare for the main pattern, 10 rows per repeat, I have knit 126 rows. Therefore I have knit 126*126 + 5*126 = 16,506 stitches in total.
My scale says this weighs 55 grams, or about 300 stitches per gram.
Looks like plenty of yarn for another pattern repeat or two. Keeping in mind that the finishing will require 12 rows, how much yarn can I expect to use if I knit a few more repeats?
11 repeats: N = 126 (rows so far) + 10 (11th repeat) + 12 (border/finishing) = 148
148² + 5*148 is 22,644 stitches. At 300 stitches per gram, this will use 76 grams of yarn.
12 repeats: N = 158 Total Stitches = 25,754 or 86 grams
13 repeats: N = 168 Total Stitches = 29,064 or 97 grams of yarn.
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
While knitting a triangular shawl where one starts with 7 stitches (ignore the set-up rows which use a trivial amount of yarn in the grand scheme of things) and increases four stitches every right side row, if N is the number of rows that have been knit then the total number of stitches done is N² + 5N. (now that I think about it, I am guessing one could derive this from a simple area of triangle formula.)
How does one use this delightfully compact formula? Well, I have knit 10 pattern repeats so far. With 26 rows to prepare for the main pattern, 10 rows per repeat, I have knit 126 rows. Therefore I have knit 126*126 + 5*126 = 16,506 stitches in total.
My scale says this weighs 55 grams, or about 300 stitches per gram.
Looks like plenty of yarn for another pattern repeat or two. Keeping in mind that the finishing will require 12 rows, how much yarn can I expect to use if I knit a few more repeats?
11 repeats: N = 126 (rows so far) + 10 (11th repeat) + 12 (border/finishing) = 148
148² + 5*148 is 22,644 stitches. At 300 stitches per gram, this will use 76 grams of yarn.
12 repeats: N = 158 Total Stitches = 25,754 or 86 grams
13 repeats: N = 168 Total Stitches = 29,064 or 97 grams of yarn.
Set-in Sleeve Calculator
by Elinor Brown
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
Although raglan and yoke constructions (and even Elizabeth Zimmermann’s set-in model) are seamless, I regrettfully find them ill-fitting on my body.
Like it or not, traditional set-in sleeves just fit me better.
However, calculating the armhole and sleeve cap shape is time consuming and rather unwieldy for patterns with multiple sizes. This winter, I designed several garments for publication with set-in sleeves.
I created an Excel spreadsheet to calculate the armscye measurement, the perimeter of the armhole.
Still, the spreadsheet required tinkering here and there and was not a very good solution.
When I explained my frustration to Aaron, he decided there had to be a better way.
Using Jenna Wilson’s (girl from auntie) impeccably thorough armscye tutorial in Knitty as a guide, he wrote a web application that would take in the necessary information regarding gauge and armhole shaping to produce meaningful information about sleeve cap shaping.
The application can be found for free here.
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
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| Copyright: Elinor Brown |
Although raglan and yoke constructions (and even Elizabeth Zimmermann’s set-in model) are seamless, I regrettfully find them ill-fitting on my body.
Like it or not, traditional set-in sleeves just fit me better.
However, calculating the armhole and sleeve cap shape is time consuming and rather unwieldy for patterns with multiple sizes. This winter, I designed several garments for publication with set-in sleeves.
I created an Excel spreadsheet to calculate the armscye measurement, the perimeter of the armhole.
Still, the spreadsheet required tinkering here and there and was not a very good solution.
When I explained my frustration to Aaron, he decided there had to be a better way.
Using Jenna Wilson’s (girl from auntie) impeccably thorough armscye tutorial in Knitty as a guide, he wrote a web application that would take in the necessary information regarding gauge and armhole shaping to produce meaningful information about sleeve cap shaping.
The application can be found for free here.
INCREASE EVENLY ALONG A ROW USING EXCEL
READ ORIGINAL POST HERE
Before we start, you need these figures:
SC: starting stitch count
DC: desired stitch count
IC: the increase count, ie difference between SC and DC.
Note: if working flat, make sure you don't include your edge stitches in these counts.
Example numbers:
SC = 56
DC = 78
IC = 22
First, understand the problem. In most cases of course your starting stitch count won't divide neatly by your increase count and you'll be left with a possibly large remainder – the extra stitches left at the end of the row if you rounded down your increase interval to the next whole number. (For instance, 56/22 gives you a remainder of 12.) With sleeve shaping, I spread those extra rows out over the bottom of the sleeve, slightly lengthening the decrease intervals and reducing the slope of that portion. But this time, I don't particularly want to have all my extra stitches lopsidedly spread out on one side of a single row – I want them spread evenly across the row.
To achieve this, I plan to alternate between two different increase intervals (the basic interval, and that interval plus one of the "remainder" stitches). Ie, my pattern will have an instruction to repeat "m1, kA, m1, kB".
So let's get started.
1. Halve IC (HC) to find out how many increase repeats we need – how many times we'll work that "m1, kA, m1, kB" repeat.
Excel formula: =IC/2
Example: 22/2=11
2. Divide the starting count by this halved increase count. This gives you the number of total stitches in each increase repeat; call it total repeat, or TR.
Excel formula: =SC/HC
Example: 56/11=5
3. Within each of these repeats you need to increase two stitches. So halve TR and round up and down to get your higher and lower increase intervals (HI and LI), respectively – ie the number of whole stitches between increases. If TR is an even number, HI and LI will be equal.
Excel formulas: =ROUNDUP(TR/2,0) and =ROUNDDOWN(TR/2,0)
Note: the 0 means that we are rounding to zero decimal points.
Example: 2 and 3
4. Time to see what's left over if we work this repeat along the row – the remainder (RM).
Excel formula: =MOD(SC/HC)
Example: 56/11 leaves a remainder of 1.
5. Stick this number at the very start of your row or round, and you're done!
Your pattern instructions will look like this (assuming a plain knit row):
K RM, (m1, LI, m1, HI) to end.
Example: K1, (m1, k2, m1, k3) to end.
Bonus tip: If you have a reasonably sized remainder, you could take a few of those stitches over to the end of your row, for better balance. It's not practical to include instructions for that in a multiple-sizes pattern, though.
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| Copyright: studio-miranda |
SC: starting stitch count
DC: desired stitch count
IC: the increase count, ie difference between SC and DC.
Note: if working flat, make sure you don't include your edge stitches in these counts.
Example numbers:
SC = 56
DC = 78
IC = 22
First, understand the problem. In most cases of course your starting stitch count won't divide neatly by your increase count and you'll be left with a possibly large remainder – the extra stitches left at the end of the row if you rounded down your increase interval to the next whole number. (For instance, 56/22 gives you a remainder of 12.) With sleeve shaping, I spread those extra rows out over the bottom of the sleeve, slightly lengthening the decrease intervals and reducing the slope of that portion. But this time, I don't particularly want to have all my extra stitches lopsidedly spread out on one side of a single row – I want them spread evenly across the row.
To achieve this, I plan to alternate between two different increase intervals (the basic interval, and that interval plus one of the "remainder" stitches). Ie, my pattern will have an instruction to repeat "m1, kA, m1, kB".
So let's get started.
1. Halve IC (HC) to find out how many increase repeats we need – how many times we'll work that "m1, kA, m1, kB" repeat.
Excel formula: =IC/2
Example: 22/2=11
2. Divide the starting count by this halved increase count. This gives you the number of total stitches in each increase repeat; call it total repeat, or TR.
Excel formula: =SC/HC
Example: 56/11=5
3. Within each of these repeats you need to increase two stitches. So halve TR and round up and down to get your higher and lower increase intervals (HI and LI), respectively – ie the number of whole stitches between increases. If TR is an even number, HI and LI will be equal.
Excel formulas: =ROUNDUP(TR/2,0) and =ROUNDDOWN(TR/2,0)
Note: the 0 means that we are rounding to zero decimal points.
Example: 2 and 3
4. Time to see what's left over if we work this repeat along the row – the remainder (RM).
Excel formula: =MOD(SC/HC)
Example: 56/11 leaves a remainder of 1.
5. Stick this number at the very start of your row or round, and you're done!
Your pattern instructions will look like this (assuming a plain knit row):
K RM, (m1, LI, m1, HI) to end.
Example: K1, (m1, k2, m1, k3) to end.
Bonus tip: If you have a reasonably sized remainder, you could take a few of those stitches over to the end of your row, for better balance. It's not practical to include instructions for that in a multiple-sizes pattern, though.
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