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Showing posts with label Shawls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Shawls. Show all posts

Tuesday, 1 August 2017

Mochi Plus Shell Lace Stole

Designed & Knit by Barbara Breiter

https://web.archive.org/web/20161207054124/http://www.straw.com/cpy/patterns2/accessories/MochiPlus-ShellStole.html

This beautiful lace shawl is knit in a wonderfully soft, slow striping Mochi Plus yarn. The rectangle design means no shaping so the simple lace pattern is easy to work and it is knit in the lengthwise direction.

Sizes:
Prior to blocking: 67" wide x 20" long
After blocking: 70" wide x 22" long

Gauge:
3.5 sts=1" in St st

Materials:
Crystal Palace Bamboo 35" Circular Size 11 US (8 mm)
8-50 gr balls Crystal Palace Yarns Mochi Plus #553 Violets Rainbow

Instructions
CO 238 sts.
K 2 rows, slipping first st of every row.
Begin pattern Rows 1-12 below, slipping first st, k the next two sts, work pattern to last 3 sts, k3 every row.
Row 1 (WS) and all WS Rows: Purl.
Row 2: K2tog, *k5, yo, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 4: K2tog, *k4, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 6: K2tog, *k3, yo, k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 8: K2tog, *k2, yo, k1, yo, k5, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 10: K2tog, *k1, yo, k3, yo, k4, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 12: K2tog, * yo, k5, yo, k3, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.

Rep Rows 1-12 6 more times; stole should measure about 20" long.
P 2 rows.
BO knitwise loosely.
Block.

Designed by Barbara Breiter - visit her site for many more patterns - www.knitabit.net

Crystal Palace Yarns 160 23rd St, Richmond, CA 94804
phone: 510-237-9988, fax: 510-237-9809 email: cpyinfo -@- straw.com

copyright 2009 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. - We are happy to share this free knitting pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format or elsewhere on the Web without permission. Knitting shops carrying CP Yarns Mochi Plus are welcome to print and share this pattern with customers of our yarns.












Sunday, 29 November 2015

3 most popular shawl shapes

Copyright: 
Link to POST HERE

Acces to the pdf file HERE



File contains shape details, charts and graph paper to print


Link to Stitch Mastery Tutorial HERE







Saturday, 28 November 2015

Knitwear design process

Copyright: Martina Behm



Designing – I HERE



Designing – II HERE



Designing – III HERE







Not enough yarn to finish the shawl

by Mabel-Mabel

READ ORIGINAL POST HERE




I ran out of yarn and cannot get more of the same yarn. The second point is missing. The Mallory Hills Shawlette would be unusable without that point.
After a week of mourning, here is how I fixed it:
  1. Calculate how many stitches are missing from the non-existent point. This is pretty simple using the charts and Excel. Approximately 1,168 stitches are missing. That gives me a target for how many stitches to remove from the central, point-forming area of the design.
  2. Calculate how many rows from the middle of the shawl would give me enough yarn to knit at least 1,168 stitches. Think in pairs of rows; you need to take out one row on each side of the center. Again, use charts and Excel. This lace pattern has mostly-purl WS rows, and that is a real help here, My calculation takes into account that I want the last complete row remaining after ripping out to be a WS row. This is challenging enough — make it easier where you can. Ripping back to Row 32 and resuming on Row 9 gives me enough yarn for 1,670 stitches. About 500 stitches’ worth for added security! Looking at the charts for the number of rows repeated in the three separate lace patterns, I can see that going from Row 32 to Row 9 will keep two of the three lace patterns consistent. Good visually! The pattern with a 48-row repeat simply cannot be matched this time. (References to row numbers should make sense when you read the pattern in Interweave Knitscene, Spring 2014.)
    Small needle used as a life line. Ready to rip out.
    Small needle used as a life line. Ready to rip out.
  3. Run a circular needle through stitches on target row, for me Row 32 nearest the middle of the shawl. Use a needle several sizes smaller than your working needle to make it easier. Don’t worry too much about getting every stitch perfect, though the more attention you give this step, the easier it will be later.
  4. Rip and wind yarn.
  5. Pay special attention to stitches on the needle and stitches that should be on the needle. It is a good idea to slip all stitches around the circular so you can examine each stitch. Un-twist twisted stitches. Any stitches missed can be picked up with a crochet hook. Stitches picked up
    Life line was in row below target row for just 4 stitches. Easy to recover those stitches.
    Life line was in row below target row for just 4 stitches. Easy to recover those stitches.
    one row below where you meant to be can be re-created from the floats or recovered in the air. Stitches picked up one row above will stop the ripping; pick up on the correct row and continue to rip.
  6. Weigh the ball of yarn. Does it weigh at least half (ideally a little more than half) the full skein? If so, you are fine. If it weighs too little, you may need to rip out another two rows. If you have the choice, weigh grams rather than ounces.
  7. If ripping out after knitted fabric has sat a long time, block the yarn to get the kinks out. My shawl rested for only a week, and I did not see the need to block the yarn.
  8. Before beginning to knit again, compare stitches on the needle and the fabric to the chart. Does it look right? Do you have the correct number of stitches between pattern repeats? Ah…
    Ripped to the good row, stitches checked, yarn wound, and ready to resume!
    Ripped to the good row, stitches checked, yarn wound, and ready to resume!
  9. Resume knitting with your working needle size at the row that you calculated in Step 2. Set aside your smaller, life-line needle after your first row; you should not need it again for this project.
How might this have happened? I did a gauge swatch and thought I was on target for gauge, although we all know that a swatch is a sampling for a larger piece, and samples do not always predict full-scale results with perfect accuracy. The designer noted in the pattern that her sample “used almost all of one skein of yarn,” labeled at 490 yards. My skein of yarn is labeled 500 yards. According to the labels alone, I had 10 yards to spare. Yarn producers use averages. The designer’s skein might have had more than 490 yards, and the skein of yarn I have might actually be less than 500 yards. This just happens. It is not a flaw or a fault.
How might I have prevented running out of yarn on this project?
  • Weighing the original ball, without its label, then weighing again near and not beyond the center of the shawlette to be sure I had not used more than half the yarn by weight. Adjust before knitting on.
  • Using a smaller needle size than I used in the swatch, even though my swatch measured to gauge and had the drape and hand I wanted. When each stitch is a tiny bit smaller, you can knit more stitches with the same amount of yarn.
  • Choosing a yarn for this pattern with well over 500 yards, either already in hand or available for purchase.
Aside from the added drama of ripping out more than half a lace shawl, I like this pattern. The photography in the magazine may not do it full justice, nor do these images of the un-blocked work in progress. The number and size of charts will appeal to dedicated lace knitters. The edge treatment is definitive and easy to work. Good pattern!
The yarn I am using is Miss Babs Tarte, fingering weight, 4-ply yarn with 75% superwash Merino, 15% nylon and 10% tencel. The purple color is a Babette called “Bubble Bath.” What’s a Babette? One-of-a-kind skeins, which you cannot expect ever to see again. I bought one skein at a festival and have not spotted a Raveler with the same colorway with whom I might trade. I like knitting with it and look forward to seeing how it blocks.
This fix works for this project but may not apply to all cases of running out of yarn, and knitters without a geeky streak will not want to use it at all. A similar strategy may work on other projects, especially when there is an obvious middle to the design and you can work out from there to create a new mid-point suited to the amount of yarn you have.
Would you use this method to eke out a shawl with less yarn than called for? What would you do instead if you had a lace shawl missing its second point?


Maggie Shawl Calculator

READ ORIGINAL POST HERE


Copyright Lucia Liljegren 2007



This post has a calculator to create a customized pattern for this shawl shape. If you enter the width you want and the gauge you achieve, this program will provide specific directions and estimate yardage requirements that for you.1

Easy construction: This is a modified double triangle shawl; the knitter starts by casting on 1 stitch. 
After that, she increases twice each row: once at the beginning and once near the center. 
After knitting “a while”, the knitter begins to increase 2 stitches at the beginning; this causes the shawl to have long “tails” which curl and appear to require sophisticated shaping.









Triangular Shawl Calculator

(c) Bex Hopkins 2010


READ ORIGINAL POSTS HERE and 

HERE


Here’s a little way to calculate the maximum number of rows you can work on a shawl (top down shawls only). 

You need to have knitted at least 20% of your yarn to do get an accurate answer, though it will return a result with more than 10% yarn used.



Shawl Anatomy

READ ORIGINAL POST HERE


CONSTRUCTIONS COVERED IN THE POST:


Top Down Triangular Shawl

Bottom Up Triangular – shaped with decreases

Bottom Up Triangular – shaped with increases

End to End Elongated Triangular Shawl

Top Down Semi-Circular Shawl

Bottom Up Crescent Shawl – shaped with short rows





About the math of calculating your knitting progress on triangular shawls

by slowknits

READ ORIGINAL POST HERE

Take your total numer of rows (in my case 204) and multiply by the total number of stitches at the longest row (471) and you get the total number of stitches your shawl requires.
Total rows = 204
Total sts at last (longest) row = 471
204 * 471 = 96,084
Divide that by 2 and you get the total number of stitches you need to knit to make the shawl.
96,084 / 2 = 48,042
Now take the number of rows you've knitted, say 165, and the number of stitches on the needle, about 385 (I may be off a couple of stitches but you get the idea) and do the same.
Multiply the current row by the current stitches, divide the result by two and you'll get the number of stitches you have knitted so far.
165 * 385 = 63,140 / 2 = 31,570
Now divide the current stitches by the total stitches to get your progress so far:
31,570 / 48,042 = 0.65 (65%)
To put this into a formula where CR = Current rows, Cs = Current stitches, TCs = Total Current stitches, Tr = Total rows, Ts = Total stitches, TOs = Total Overall stitches, P = progress:
(Cr * Cs) / 2 = TCs
(Tr * Ts) / 2 = TOs
TCs / TOs = P







Triangle Shawls and fun with algebra

by madorville

READ ORIGINAL POST HERE




While knitting a triangular shawl where one starts with 7 stitches (ignore the set-up rows which use a trivial amount of yarn in the grand scheme of things) and increases four stitches every right side row, if N is the number of rows that have been knit then the total number of stitches done is N² + 5N. (now that I think about it, I am guessing one could derive this from a simple area of triangle formula.)

How does one use this delightfully compact formula? Well, I have knit 10 pattern repeats so far. With 26 rows to prepare for the main pattern, 10 rows per repeat, I have knit 126 rows. Therefore I have knit 126*126 + 5*126 = 16,506 stitches in total.

My scale says this weighs 55 grams, or about 300 stitches per gram.

Looks like plenty of yarn for another pattern repeat or two. Keeping in mind that the finishing will require 12 rows, how much yarn can I expect to use if I knit a few more repeats?

11 repeats: N = 126 (rows so far) + 10 (11th repeat) + 12 (border/finishing) = 148

148² + 5*148 is 22,644 stitches. At 300 stitches per gram, this will use 76 grams of yarn.

12 repeats: N = 158 Total Stitches = 25,754 or 86 grams

13 repeats: N = 168 Total Stitches = 29,064 or 97 grams of yarn.







Shawl design workshop

READ ORIGINAL POSTS HERE and HERE

copyright: theyarnloop




FITTING IN YOUR STITCH PATTERNS 

READ ORIGINAL POST HERE

For our sample shawl I kept it relatively simple, using eyelet stitch patterning and garter stitch ridges, for all but one section. 

Even though an eyelet stitch pattern is as straightforward as lace can get, always being a variation of (dec 1 st, yo), you still need to fit it into your stitch count. 

For example, on Row 45 of Cornice you are starting with 171 stitches and aiming to increase to 175 stitches. (Errata for Cornice shawl HERE)

At this point you are working a 4-stitch eyelet pattern as (SSK, K2, yo) on the first half of the row and (yo, K2, Ktog) on the second half of the row to mirror it. 

In fitting in your stitch pattern you need to discount the central stitch and the starting and ending stitch of each row. 

So 171 - 3 = 168 stitches to work into pattern. 

Then divide by 2 to give the number of stitches to work in pattern either side of the central spine = 84. 

As the eyelet pattern repeat is over 4 stitches, you could fit 21 repeats into each side with no ‘spare’ stitches to work plain. 

This would appear as: Row 45 (RS): K1, yo, (SSK, K2, yo) 21 times, yo, slm, K1, slm, yo, (yo, K2, K2tog) to last st, yo, K1. 175 sts. 

However, there is a problem, as you would now have 2 yarnovers next to each other either side of the central marker. 
One could change the order of the stitch pattern to get round this. This could appear as: Row 45 (RS): K1, yo, (SSK, yo, K2) 21 times, yo, slm, K1, slm, yo, (K2, yo K2tog) to last st, yo, K1. 175 sts. 
However, I don’t want to change the stitch pattern around if I can help it. 
This is not just for the sake of keeping the pattern the same. 
It’s also about allowing the knitter who’s making the shawl to find a rhythm with the stitch pattern they’re using. 

So, I ‘took back’ a 4-stitch repeat on each side and split it between the edge of the shawl and the centre. 

As the pattern repeat ends with a yarnover on the first half of the shawl and begins with a yarnover on the second half of the shawl, I placed 3 of the 4 ‘spare’ stitches on each side around the central spine, to keep the pattern balanced. 

This leaves the final instruction (with the extra stitches shown in bold) as: Row 45 (RS): K1, yo, K1, (SSK, K2, yo) to 3 sts before marker, K3, yo, slm, K1, slm, yo, K3, (yo, K2, K2tog) to last 2 sts, K1, yo, K1. 175 sts. (4 sts increased.)

Of course, you may wish to add in something more complex, such as the Lattice Stitch featured here. 

As with the simple eyelet pattern, you will need to make sure you can fit your pattern repeats into the number of stitches available on each half of the shawl. 

Remember that stitch patterns with a ‘central’ stitch, will be worked as a multiple of the repeated stitches ‘plus one’ (eg, multiple of 6 sts + 1) to balance out the pattern at the start and end of the patterned section. 

This means that for each patterned section, you will need to allow an extra stitch in addition to the main pattern repeat, in order to create a perfectly balanced stitch pattern. 

ADJUSTING PATTERN REPEATS FOR INCREASES 

As you are increasing frequently when making any kind of top-down shawl, you will probably have to take these new stitches ‘into pattern’ at some point or you will end up with large expanses of stocking or garter stitch at the edges of your patterned sections. 

When doing this, aim to keep the original alignment of the lace or cable patterning, and don’t add a new repeat before or after these stitches until you have enough to make a complete repeat. 

For example, a shawl with a stitch pattern multiple of 6 + 1 might look like this: 

Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, (36 stitches in pattern = 6 repeats) work 1 stitch to balance pattern, yo, K1, yo, work 1 stitch to balance pattern (36 stitches in pattern = 6 repeats), yo, K1. 4 stitches added. 

Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl. 

Row 3: K1, yo, K1 (inc from Row 1), (36 stitches in pattern = 6 repeats) work 1 stitch to balance pattern, K1 (inc from Row 1), yo, K1, yo, K1 (inc from Row 1), work 1 stitch to balance pattern (36 stitches in pattern = 6 repeats) K1, yo, K1. 4 stitches added. 

Row 5: K1, yo, K2 (incs from Row 1 & 3), (36 stitches in pattern = 6 repeats) work 1 stitch to balance pattern, K2 (incs from Row 1 & 3), yo, K1, yo, K2 (incs from Row 1 & 3), work 1 stitch to balance pattern (36 stitches in pattern = 6 repeats) K2 (incs from Row 1 & 3), yo, K1. 4 stitches added. 

Row 7: Row 5: K1, yo, K3 (incs from Row 1, 3 & 5), (36 stitches in pattern = 6 repeats) work 1 stitch to balance pattern, K3 (incs from Row 1, 3 & 5), yo, K1, yo, K3 (incs from Row 1, 3 & 5), work 1 stitch to balance pattern (36 stitches in pattern = 6 repeats) K3 (incs from Row 1, 3 & 5), yo, K1. 4 stitches added. 

 At this point you have now added 12 stitches: 4 stitches each for Rows 1, 3 and 7, which means you can add 2 repeats to your patterning - 1 for each side, as follows: 

Row 9: K1, yo, 42 stitches in pattern = 7 repeats), work 1 stitch to balance pattern, yo, K1, yo, work 1 stitch to balance pattern (42 stitches in pattern = 7 repeats), yo, K1. 4 stitches added. 

However, this will shift everything across half a repeat, so you could instead add half a pattern repeat or wait until you’ve increased enough stitches to add a full repeat without going out of alignment. 

Whatever you do, check your stitch counts carefully before winging it!











Saturday, 7 November 2015

Shawl Design Online FREE Course

by jriede






Square shawl shapes LINK HERE


Triangle shawl shapes LINK HERE


Circles, circle parts & crescent shawl shapes LINK HERE


Stars and polygon shawl shapes LINK HERE


Faroese shawls and wing-type triangle shawl shapes LINK HERE


Innovative and uncommon shawl shapes LINK HERE











Wednesday, 28 October 2015

How to Design Crochet Patterns: Triangular Shawl Bonus

by estherchandler / May 30, 2015


READ ORIGINAL POST HERE


TO VIEW THE CROCHET PATTERN DESIGN SERIES LINKS 
SCROLL DOWN 


http://makemydaycreative.com/



How to design Triangular Shawls – A tutorial by Make My Day Creative. This tutorial works for knitting too!


Triangular shawls are a great way to place to start with designs involving increasing and decreasing. It’s easy to see if your design is coming out how you like from the beginning. And you can modify them to make scarves in the event of a yarn shortage!

Last time I looked at how to increase and decrease in a stitch pattern. Once you have your increase or decrease figured out you can turn your stitch pattern into a triangular shawl. All you need to do is consider a few details such as the angle of your increase/decrease, your desired overall look, and then choose a construction type. Your yarn choice may also affect your construction preference particularly if you are using a gradient or long self-striping yarn.

What is the angle of decrease/increase?

When I talk about the angle of increase or decrease, I mean the angle made measuring from the horizontal row to the edge. Lay your sample swatch out with your foundation row at the top. If you are increasing then the angle is measured from the horizontal edge projected out to the edge of the work (i.e. not across the work). For decreasing, the edge is measured from the horizontal row to the edge of the work (i.e. across the work).


Angle of Increase or Decrease – How to Design Crochet Patterns by Make My Day Creative



[I have labelled the angles this way so that an increase and decrease made in the same pattern will both have the same angle – e.g. if you made a sample in sc and worked the decrease as sc2tog at the start of a row, and an increase of (2sc) in one stitch at the end of the row, the angle of decrease at one end and increase at the other equal each other.]

Construction Types:

There are several ways of making a triangle shape: top down, bottom up, centre top out, sideways, diagonal – and I’m sure there are more but I’ll stick to these for now! Each of these shapes will require your stitch pattern to be increased, or decreased, or both.

I have put together a handy pdf Quick Reference Guide on these types (download HERE).

Top Down

A top down construction begins by making a foundation row which is the length of the top edge. This is then decreased on both sides of the row so that subsequent rows get shorter and shorter until you end up at the tip. The foundation row can be a bore but subsequent rows get faster and faster.

This construction has the benefit that you can stop part of the way down your shawl and turn it into a scarf with tapered ends if you find yourself short on yarn. A trapezium shape can also be turned into a multiway scarf/shawl, like my Multiplicity Lace Shawl.


If your decrease angle is 45° or less this shawl will work well. The more acute your angle is the shallower your shawl will be. Summer Sprigs Lace Scarf is made with an acute decrease angle and is quite shallow for its wingspan. If your decrease angle is more than 45° then the shawl will be very long for its wingspan.



Top Down and Bottom Up Triangular Shawls – How to Design Crochet Patterns by Make My Day Creative


Bottom Up

A bottom up shawl begins at the centre corner opposite the long edge and increases with each row until your shawl is the desired size. This construction has the benefit over a top down method of avoiding a long foundation row, but if you run out of yarn you could wind up with a neckerchief rather than a shawl!

You will need to begin by making a single repeat of your pattern. If your pattern repeat is long (e.g. more than 10 sts) but you wish your shawl to end in a sharp point, you may want to crochet a small plain triangle (mesh works well) as the foundation.

As with a top down construction, if your increase angle is 45° or less this shawl will work well. The more acute your angle is the shallower your shawl will be. If your increase angle is more than 45° then the shawl will be very long for its wingspan.

Centre Top Out

A centre top out shawl is made by beginning at the centre of the long edge. An increase is made at the start and end of each row. A double increase is made at the centreline. The shawl then grows out and down from the foundation. Rows are worked diagonal to the top edge, reflected at the centre line. (See my Atlantic Lace Shawl as an example.)

Make your foundation row a small, odd number of stitches (e.g. 5 or 7) and increase until you have enough for two pattern repeats, plus a central stitch.

Centre Top Out Triangular Shawls – How to Design Crochet Patterns by Make My Day Creative


Centre top out can look confusing. I tend to think of it as two bottom up shawls joined together along their short sides using a central stitch. If you can make a bottom up shawl then you can make a centre top down shawl!

The increase angle is quite important for this construction type. If it is not 45° (or very near it) then the shawl will not be triangular. An increase angle of less than 45° will also work, but instead of being a triangular shape the top edge will be dipped towards the tip. This is actually a nice shape to make because the ends can wrap around the body more easily.

Sideways

A sideways shawl is made by starting at the tip of the long edge and increasing on one side only. Once the central point has been reached (make sure you use less than half your yarn!) then decreases are made on the same side of the work. Working a shawl this way makes rows which run vertically up and down the shawl. To ensure you get a symmetrical shawl, make sure your decrease and increase angle are the same as each other!

This construction type is a good option if your increase and decrease angle are more than 45°. The greater the angle, the shallower the shawl will turn out to be.


Sideways and Diagonal Triangular Shawls – How to Design Crochet Patterns by Make My Day Creative

Diagonal

A diagonal construction is worked by making a foundation row which is the length of one of your short sides. This is then decreased on one side only – this side becomes the long top edge. Rows run diagonally across the shawl – in a similar manner to my Shooting Stars cowl (although this is a different construction type the effect is similar).

If you are looking for a symmetrical shawl then you will need to use a stitch pattern which has a decrease angle of 45°. However, asymmetric shawls can be an interesting alternative, so this is a good option if your angle is much bigger (e.g. 60°) or smaller (e.g. 30) than 45°. I say this because that way the asymmetry looks like it was on purpose and not an accident!


Asymmetric Diagonal Triangular Shawls – How to Design Crochet Patterns by Make My Day Creative


For asymmetric shawls with a large decrease angle (more than 45°), the foundation row will work out as the shortest edge and for asymmetric shawls with a small decrease angle (less than 45°), the foundation row will work out as the second longest edge.




HOW TO DESIGN CROCHET PATTERNS SERIES

How to Design and Alter Crochet Patterns Part 1: Stitch Patterns

How to Design Crochet Patterns Part 2: Pattern Repeats

How to Design Crochet Patterns Part 3a: Shaping in Crochet Stitch Patterns

How to Design Crochet Patterns Part 3b: How to increase and decrease in stitch patterns

How to Design Crochet Patterns: Triangular Shawl Bonus

How to Design Crochet Patterns Part 4: Selecting Yarn

How to Design Crochet Patterns Part 5: Selecting Yarn Colour













Sunday, 23 August 2015

Photo Tutorial So Simple Box Stitch Shawl

Photo Tutorial So Simple Box Stitch Shawl

Shawl Pattern is here.


Read the ORIGINAL POST HERE

For this tutorial, I changed colors, only so you can see the placement of the stitches, I did not take time to work in yarn ends, please ignore the sloppy color change.
This is a two row pattern repeat worked until the desired size is achieved. The first few rows are displayed here as a visual assistance to getting a proper start.


You may wish to start with chain 6, sl st in first ch to form ring. You may also use an adjustable loop. I started with an adjustable loop, chain 3 (counts as first dc, throughout), 3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc all in loop. Pull adjustable loop closed, ch 1, turn. You have 8 dc with a 2 ch space in the middle.


Work 1 sc between the first and second dc, ch 3; work (sc, ch 3, sc) in the center 2 ch space, (this makes a loop in the center space) ch 3, single crochet between seventh and eighth double crochet, turn .


Ch 3 (counts as first double crochet), 3 dc in first single crochet. Work 3 dc in the 3 chain space, and work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the loop (to make the point) Once you have the point, work 3 dc in the next 3 chain space and then put 4 dc in the last sc stitch. Ch 1, turn.

NOTE:
You will always have 4 dc at the beginning and 4 dc at the ending of the double crochet row.


Work 1 sc between the first and second dc, chain 3, sk 3 dc and sc between the stitches to create 3 dc groups, to the point. In the ch 2 space at the point work (sc, ch 3, sc) to form a loop, then ch 3 working across the rest of the row, where your last sc should be between the last 2 dc. Turn


Ch 3, work 3 dc in the first sc stitch, work 3 dc in each 3 chain space to point, work 3 dc, ch 2 , 3 dc in point, 3 dc in each 3 ch space to end, 4 dc in last sc stitch, ch 1, turn.


Work 1 sc between the first and second dc, chain 3, sk 3 dc and sc between the stitches to create 3 dc groups, to the point. In the point will work sc, ch 3 sc to form a loop, then ch 3 and work the second side where you last sc should be between the last 2 dc. Ch 3 turn

NOTES:
On every double crochet row you will ch 3, then work 3 dc in the first (sc) stitch to add a 4 dc cluster to the beginning of the row; you will end with 4 dc in the last (sc) stitch to add a 4 dc cluster to the end of the row.

On every single crochet row, you will be working between the double crochet stitches of the previous row, beginning between the first 2 dc, creating 3 dc groups across the row, working a 3 chain loop (sc, chain 3, sc) in the center point following the pattern across the rest of the row with the ending sc between the last 2 dc

As your shawl grows the edge will start to gently curve into a “hug” position.

You may work as many rows and colors as you wish and when you decide it is the size you like you can add the border of your choice or none at all. I always end on the single crochet and chain stitch row before I start a crochet border. Then I count loops not stitches. The exception would be for fringe where you may wish to end on a double crochet row to give a solid base for the fringe.

I posted 3 different borders or you may make up your own.

As you work the weight of the yarn will pull your edges straight, just be careful you do not start your beginning stitches too loose or snug.


Simple Box Stitch Shawl

Thursday, July 11, 2013
So Simple Box Stitch Shawl

Read the ORIGINAL POST HERE

This is a simple shawl pattern, similar to the popular Granny Square Triangle Shawl. Made with the Box Stitch Pattern it does not display all of the holes of a true Granny Square Stitch. It is worked with worsted weight yarn and it is what I would consider a very generous size shawl for those of us who dislike bare arms and want lots of coverage.

Row 1: chain 6, sl st in first st to form ring. Or start with Adjustable Loop Row 2: chain 3, 3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc in ring, ch 1, turn ( 8 dc) Row 3: sc in space between first 2 dc, chain 3, sc in ch 2 space, ch 3, sc in same space, (point made) ch 3, sc between last 2 dc, turn.


Row 4: ch 3, 3 dc in first single crochet, (this adds a new cluster to the beginning of each dc row) 3 dc in ch 3 space across row to the 3 chain loop (point) work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in loop, 3 dc in next 3 ch sp, across row ending with 4 dc in last single crochet, turn. Your shawl will gradually form a natural curve at the ends as double crochet rows are added. Row 5: ch 1, sc between first 2 dc, chain 3, skipping 3 dc, work a sc between the dc stitches forming groups of 3 dc clusters, to the point. In the point work sc, ch 3, sc all in the same space, ch 3, continuing to form 3 dc clusters to end of row, ending with ch 3, sc between last 2 dc, turn.


Repeat: rows 4 and 5 until you have 28 double crochet rows.

For additional Photo tutorial on how to get started: idealdelusions

Depending on your choice of border you may wish to work row 5 one more time to take advantage of the 3 ch loops as a base for the border.

I love a basic fringe for a border; of course, as always, you may add the border of your choice or none at all.

On this shawl I wanted to make it a bit more fancy so I adapted the border from Doris Chan’s “All Shawl” which can be found in her free pattern on Ravelry.

If you wish to add the same border I did, you need the All Shawl pattern by Doris Chan.

If you observe the pattern you will notice it alternates shell patterns with pineapples.

I ended my shawl on a single crochet row so I would have the chain 3 loops to work in, instead of the double crochet stitches.

I wanted a pineapple stitch to be at the center of the point, so starting at the point, instead of counting as 1, 2, 3, I counted the point loop as a pineapple, space, shell, space, pineapple, space, shell, space pineapple, etc.. until I got to the beginning of the row.

It so happened on my shawl the first loop would be a shell. I then began on the second row of the border (see the mark for row 2 on the left side of the graph on the top of page 9 on the All Shall Pattern)

I followed that graph and I chained 3, ((but I worked a double crochet in the same stitch (see red arrow) on my photo below because I wanted a solid edge) then I worked chain 1, double crochet shell, ch 1, skipped a loop, triple crochet set, (to start pineapple) skipped a loop, worked a dc shell, skipped a loop...repeat to the point.

In the point I worked the triple crochet set for the pineapple, then starting up the other side I skipped the next ch 3 loop and worked a shell, skip a loop, start triple crochets for the pineapple. When I got to the end of the row I chained 1 and worked 2 double crochet in the last stitch. There you have the base for the border.

 NOTE: If the the base for the border seems a bit tight for your shawl, try putting 2 chain stitches between each shell and pineapple stitch instead of just 1 as you work across each row.

Follow the graph rows 3 – 6 working shell in shell stitches and pineapple stitches required for each pineapple to complete your border.
Page 8 gives a close up detail of how the finished pattern should look.

I received an email that said, in part: “I finally got it worked out but not starting with a shell but a space. I am glad I counted the pattern back to the start and not assumed mine was the same as yours. I took advantage and made my edging border begin with ch 3,dc,dc, in the first 3 stitches. Then did a shell in the next loop. It worked out great and the pineapple hit the point loop. I finished the row with 3 dc in the last 3 stitches. That really gave me a nice straight edge for the border all the way through. I found the graph a bit confusing as well. How you applied it to your pattern made perfect sense to me.






This shawl is displayed spread out on a standard double size bed.



This is the same shawl and the third and last view for this post. I selected what I thought was a 16 ounce “mill end” bag of powder blue sports weight yarn, that I purchased at A. C. Moore for this version of the shawl. I used a simple “V” stitch border with a picot in the last round to soften the edge and it was worked with a size “J” Susan Bates hook. I like to use a large hook with a light yarn for a softer, flexible feel to the finished item. I do have to crochet slower as it is more difficult to maintain an even tension with an oversized hook..
I am delighted how it came out and also surprised. I expected it to be smaller than the others because of a lighter weight yarn but it is in fact larger. Why ? I didn’t know so I weighed the shawl. It would appear I acquired a very generous mill end bag that was actually 18 ounces and not the expected 16. The shawl is about 47 inches from the shoulder to the point and it is about 94 inches wide. I do not have a place where I can spread it out flat and take a photo of it but I did get a few photos and close-ups.

This shawl can also be made in any size from a shoulderette to as large as you like.
I, myself, love an oversized shawl as I like generous arm coverage.

When the shawl is as large as you want it you can add the border of your choice.


To make the border on this shawl, I stopped the basic shawl pattern on a single crochet and chain stitch row, reference (row 5), turn..

Border Pattern Stitch double crochet, chain 2, dc in same space. “V” stitch made

Row 1 Ch 3, dc in first stitch (for a solid edge) dc, ch 2, dc in the next 3 chain loop (counts as first “V” st,) work 1 “V” st in each 3 chain space to point. Work (“V” st, chain 3, “V” st) in the 3 chain loop at the point, continue, working 1 “V” stitch in each 3 chain loop to end, work 2 dc in last stitch. Turn

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in first dc, “V” stitch in center of each “V” stitch, to point. Work “V” st, chain 3, “V” st in the center space of the point, “V” st in each “V” st to end. 2 dc in last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 to make your border the width you like (This shawl has a border 5 rows deep)

Picot stitch: Double crochet in center of “V” st, chain 3, slip st in first chain of chain 3, dc in same “V” stitch = "V" st with picot on top..

Final round Work "V" st with picot, in the center of each “V” st of the previous row, working (dc, picot, dc, picot, dc, picot, dc) in the center chain space of the point, work “V” st with picot in the center of each “V” st to end, 2 dc in last stitch.


To help you plan ahead, this shawl had 35 double crochet rows, 35 sc / chain stitch rows and 5 rows “V” stitches for the border. When I finished this shawl I had only about 7 inches of yarn left, it was that close.

Yes, I know I said the blue shawl would be the last one I posted for this pattern but today I want to talk about “Caron Simply Soft Party Yarn”. Since I did add a little something extra to the design I thought I would just sneak it in on this same post. The color of this shawl is Silver Sparkle but there is a nice selection of other colors and I loved working with this soft, shiny yarn. I think it made an elegant shawl. Modest but has a discreet sparkle that can be worn day or evening. This shawl is a bit smaller and is more for dress up than a heavy duty working shawl.


I worked the pattern until I had completed the first 5 rows of double crochet groups. On the next row instead of single crochet, I worked a double crochet and chain stitch row.
So the row would be worked as ch 3, dc between first 2 dc, chain 3, skipping 3 dc, work a dc between the dc stitches forming groups of 3 dc clusters, to the point. In the point work dc, ch 3, dc all in the same space, ch 3, continuing to form 3 dc clusters to end of row, ending with ch 3, dc between last 2 dc, turn.
The following row, I resumed the pattern of double crochet groups stitches and worked as per the pattern.

On this shawl I put my space row after each set of 5 double crochet rows. To do this I inserted the row of double crochet and chain 3 stitches instead of single crochet and chain 3, then resume the pattern. The height of the double crochet stitches are what make the spaces. You can put the spaces rows anywhere you want them.

The border on the Gray Sparkle Shawl is also an adaption of the border created by Doris Chan for her All Shawl Pattern. It is the same as the border on the first shawl shown on this post.
The information and link and my adaption notes are listed above with the pattern instructions.