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Creating circles and cylinders with ease Using circular and double-pointed needles
Making cowls, wrist warmers, hats, and bags most knitters learn to knit with something flat because they think that it’s easier.
But WWW aside from the slightly fiddly moment where you have to join your circle after you cast on, knitting in the round is usually easier than knitting flat.
Think about it as you doodle a straight line and a circle on paper.
If you trace the line over and over again with your finger, your finger has to stop and change direction at each end. But when you trace the circle, your finger is always moving in one direction and never has to stop and go back the other direction.
Knitting in the round is like that too; you don’t have to turn your work, so you’re never working on the wrong side.
This means you can knit stockinette stitch without purling. Plus, you do less finishing. You can knit in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles — this chapter gives you opportunities to try both. (You can head to Chapter 1 for more details about these types of needles.)
This chapter will have you going around in circles as you create all kinds of great accessories. In this chapter, I provide patterns for the following projects:
A cowl that will keep your head and neck warm all winter long. You can also use this pattern to create a poncho.
Two different takes on wrist warmers. The first is an easy fingerless glove and the second is a ruffled muffatee. The muffatee covers the area between your glove and jacket, and does it with great style!
Hat patterns. Hats are the perfect circle project because they’re quick to knit and allow you to practice with both circular and double-pointed needles. Try the basic beanie, a cabled beanie variation, or a long-tailed hat.
A wonderful felted purse that’s worked in a mosaic pattern. This project is a great way to try your hand at color work.
Ruffled Cowl
The cowl in Figure 11-1 is fun to knit and is an easy introduction to circular knitting. It features ribbing on one end and a sumptuous ruffle on the other. You might wear the ruffle slouched around your neck or pulled up for an anemone-like head warmer.
It isn’t difficult to turn this cowl into a classically styled poncho that’s knit in the round — see the later variation for the details.
A cowl makes a great neck warmer.
New skill: Joining your knitting in the round
The one big trick to circular knitting is to “join, being careful not to twist.” Nearly every pattern designed to be knit in the round will remind you of this fact. Here’s how you do it:
1. Cast on the number of stitches the pattern calls for.
2. Before you start to knit the first round, check to make sure that the stitches aren’t spiraling around the circular needle.
All the stitches should lay in one direction as they do in Figure 11-2, and the tops of the stitches should be pointing up. Now you’re ready to start knitting!
No twists are in the cast-on row.
3. Place a marker on the right needle at the beginning of the round to remind yourself where one round ends and the next one begins.
In a pinch, you can use a bit of scrap yarn tied in a loop as your marker.
4. Hold the needles so that the first cast-on stitch is the first stitch on the left needle and the working yarn is at the right.
5. Insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle as shown in Figure 11-3 and knit it.
Use a marker when you join your knitting in the round.
Take care to snug up the yarn on this first stitch; it tends to be loose. However, don’t worry too much about the loose first stitch — it will look better in a couple of rows. Besides, when you weave in the tail at the end you get another chance to tidy it up.
Some knitters like to cast on an extra stitch, transfer it to the left needle, and work a k2tog for the first stitch to make the join less visible — try it if you’d like! (To find out how to knit two stitches together, see Chapter 6.)
New skill: Increasing with kfb
This cowl pattern uses an increase that’s abbreviated as kfb (some knitters abbreviate it klfb). These abbreviations stand for “knit into the front and back of the stitch.” Kfb, which is probably the most common increase, is sometimes called the bar increase because it makes a little horizontal bar at the base of the increased stitch.
To knit into the front and back of a stitch and increase 1, follow these steps:
1. Knit the stitch normally but don’t slide the old stitch off the left needle.
2. Bring the right needle behind the left needle and insert it into the back of that same stitch as shown in Figure 11-4.
Wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle and complete the stitch, and then slide the old stitch off the left needle. You’ve made 2 stitches from 1.
There are two basic groups of increases: those done between stitches (called “make 1″; see Chapter 14 for more details) and those done in a stitch, like kfb. They both accomplish the same thing, but because one uses a stitch and one doesn’t, you shouldn’t substitute one for the other when working from a pattern — you’ll end up with the wrong number of stitches between decreases. If a pattern simply says “increase” without specifying a particular increase, stick with kfb.
Increasing with kfb.
Materials and vital statistics
Yarn: Crystal Palace Yarns Merino Stripes (90% wool, 10% acrylic); 115 yards (105 meters) per 50 grams; 3 skeins; color: 62
Needles: US 10>2 (6.5 mm) circular needle, 16- or 24-inch length
Other materials: One stitch marker; yarn needle
Size: 28 inches in circumference and 23 inches long; see the schematic for the cowl in Figure 11-5
Gauge: 10 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
The dimensions of the cowl.
This cowl is knit in the round in one piece, starting with a bit of ribbing and ending with a playful ruffle. After you get through the first few rounds, you’ll discover why people enjoy knitting a project in the round: It’s all knit stitches, and with no ends of rows, it’s easy to keep knitting away. So, you’ll find this neck warmer quick to finish.
Directions
Cast on 72 sts, place marker, and join in the round, being careful not to twist. Next round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat the previous round 3 more times.
Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and continue knitting in the round until your cowl measures 22 inches, and then begin the ruffle.
Next round: Kfb in each st. There are 144 sts.
Next round: Knit.
Next round: Kfb in each st. There are 288 sts.
Next round: Knit.
Bind off and weave in ends.
Variation: Turning your cowl into a poncho
To make this cowl into a short poncho, you need the same amount of yarn and the same needles, plus four stitch markers. You have to switch to a longer circular needle of the same size (at least 36 inches long) as the poncho grows because there are an awful lot of stitches for the ruffle on the last few rounds!
Both the poncho and the cowl are worked basically the same — from the ribbed end to the ruffle. For the poncho, you increase regularly at four points, but for the cowl, you skip the increasing. Geometrically minded knitters will think of the cowl as a cylinder and the poncho as a truncated cone or four-sided pyramid shape.
This poncho is on the small side: It measures 12 inches from the neck to the hem as shown in Figure 11-6, so it only comes down to about the elbow. If you want to make it bigger, just buy more yarn and keep going!
The shape and dimensions of the poncho.
Here’s how to knit your poncho:
Begin as you would for the cowl: Cast on, place a marker, and join in the round, being careful not to twist. Knit the ribbing as I describe in the basic pattern.
Next round: Slip marker, *kfb, k16, kfb, place marker, repeat from * twice more, kfb, k16, kfb. There are 80 sts.
Next round: Knit, slipping markers as you encounter them.
Next round: *Kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker, repeat from * to end. 8 sts have been increased.
Repeat the previous 2 rounds 20 more times, switching to a longer circular needle when necessary. There are 248 sts. Your poncho measures about 11 inches.
Knit 1 round.
Work the 4 rounds of the ruffle as I describe in the basic pattern. There are 992 sts (but you don’t need to worry about counting them!)
Bind off and weave in ends.
Basic Beanies
A good hat is a must-have in your knitting repertoire, and this basic beanie, sized for babies through adults, fits the bill.
Make it plain or cabled.
Add in stripes or a color pattern. (Any of the 8-stitch mosaic or Fair Isle patterns given in Chapter 7 can be used with this pattern, but remember to leave out the extra edge stitches since you’re working in the round.)
After your beanie is knit, top it with a pompom or tassel. The variations are endless.
Check out some beanies in Figure 11-11.
A basic beanie and its cabled cousin.
Materials and vital statistics
Yarn: Berrocco Smart Mohair (41% mohair, 54% acrylic, 5% polyester); 108 yards (100 meters) per 50 grams; 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) balls; color: Pink
Needles: US 10 (6 mm) circular needle, 16-inch length, or the size needed to match gauge; US 8 (5 mm) circular needle, 16-inch length; US 10 (6 mm) double-pointed needles
Other materials: Eight stitch markers; yarn needle to weave in ends
Size: Baby (toddler, child, small adult, large adult); circumference: 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) inches, unstretched
Gauge: 16 stitches and 20 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles
This beanie is worked in the round, starting on circular needles and switching to double-pointed needles when you shape the crown of the hat. If you want to include any color patterning, add it to the body of the hat between the ribbing and the decreases. If you’d like to knit cables on your hat, see the variation at the end of the pattern.
Directions
Cast on 56 (64, 72, 80, 88) sts with the smaller circular needles. Place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round for 24 (1, 1, 1/2, 2) inches.
Switch to larger circular needles and begin knitting in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds).
When your hat measures 4>2 (5, 5>2, 6>2, 7) inches, begin the crown shaping as follows:
Next round: *K7 (8, 9, 10, 11), place marker, repeat from * to end.
Next round (Decrease Round): *K2tog, knit to marker, slip marker, repeat from * to end. 8 sts have been decreased.
Next round: Knit.
Repeat these 2 rounds until 8 sts remain, switching to double-pointed needles when you have too few sts to fit comfortably on your circular needle.
Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail.
Finishing: Thread the tail of the yarn onto the yarn needle. Slip the stitches from the knitting needle to the yarn needle, making sure that you go through each stitch. Pull the yarn firmly to tighten up the top of the hat, and then run the yarn through the stitches again before weaving in the yarn end on the inside to secure. Weave in any remaining ends.
If you want, you can top your beanie with a pompom, knitted flower, or other adornment for extra flair.
Variation: Creating a cabled beanie
This cabled hat features straightforward six-stitch cables (see Chapter 6).
It is made with the same yarn and needles as the basic beanie, fits a toddler (child, small adult, large adult), and measures 16 (17>2, 19, 22) inches around.
You need six stitch markers to help keep your decreases lined up.
Using the smaller circular needles, cast on 66 (72, 78, 90) sts.
Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Ribbing round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat this round for 1 (1, 2, 2) inches.
Switch to the larger circular needles and begin the six-stitch right cable pattern as follows, placing markers on the first round as indicated:
Rounds 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5: *K6, p5 (6, 7, 9), place marker, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: *Slip 3 sts to the cable needle and hold to back, k3, k3 from cable needle, p5 (6, 7, 9), repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat these 6 rounds until the hat measures 5>2 (6, 6>2, 7) inches, and then begin decreasing as follows:
Continue the cable pattern as set on the columns of 6 knit sts. In other words, you should cable every 6th round (even though the decreasing is occurring too).
Next round: *K6, p2tog, purl to marker, repeat from * to end of round.
If you’re unfamiliar with purling 2 stitches together (p2tog), here’s how to do it: Insert the right needle into the next 2 stitches purlwise, wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle, and then purl them to decrease 1 stitch.
Next round: Work even, knitting and purling the sts as they appear.
Repeat the previous 2 rounds 3 (4, 5, 7) more times. There are 42 sts on the needles.
Stop the cable pattern and finish the hat in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds).
Next round: *K5, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 36 sts remain.
Next round: Knit.
Next round: *K4, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 30 sts remain. Next round: Knit.
Next round: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 24 sts remain. Next round: Knit.
Next round *K2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 18 sts remain. Next round *K1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 12 sts remain. Next round: *K2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 6 sts remain.
Cut the yarn leaving a 12-inch tail.
Finishing: Use the same technique described in the basic pattern to finish your cabled beanie.
Mosaic Bags
If you’re ready for a new challenge, try making a mosaic pattern on the felted purse in Figure 11-13.
Even though it looks complicated, if you can knit a stripe and slip a stitch, you’re ready to try it.
I’ve included both written directions and a chart for the pinbox mosaic in this pattern (see Chapter 7 for the basics on mosaics and for other mosaic patterns that can be easily substituted in this pattern); both sets of instructions give the same information, but some people find one easier to follow than the other.
The pattern for this bag presents you with lots of options.
The featured pattern is for the mosaic purse, but if you want your bag striped or plain, check out the later variations.
A plain purse can be stunning if you adorn it with a brooch, knitted flowers, or needle-felted designs.
Craft stores and yarn shops carry beautiful ready-made handles that can jazz up any bag. Or you can knit the handle with the bag.
This pattern gives you both options.
The felted mosaic purse and tote.
You can use colors on this mosaic bag in many ways. I’ve chosen two shades of the main color (dark brown and lighter brown) and two shades of the contrasting color (yellow and gold) for the pinbox mosaic. You can easily choose to use a single main color and two contrasting colors if you decide on a three-color mosaic pattern. Simpler still is sticking with just two colors. The results are fantastic any way you choose to do it!
Materials and vital statistics
Yarn: Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian highland wool); 220 yards (201 meters) per 100 grams
• Main color 1 (MC1): 2403 Dark Brown; 1 skein
• Main color 2 (MC2): 2411 Brown; 1 skein
• Contrasting color 1 (CC1): 7825 Gold; 1 skein
• Contrasting color 2 (CC2): 7827 Yellow; 1 skein Needles: US 10K (6.5 mm) circular needles, 24- or 36-inch length Other: One stitch marker; yarn needle to weave in ends
Size:
Approximate size before felting for a purse (tote):
• Width: 16 (21) inches
• Height: 18 (21) inches (without handles)
• Depth: 5 inches
Approximate size after felting for a purse (tote):
• Width: 9K(12) inches
• Height: 8 (10^4) inches (without handles)
• Depth: 3 inches
Felting is both art and science. Use the sizes given here as guidelines, but remember that your results may vary.
Gauge: 12 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
This bag is worked in one piece. The bottom is worked back and forth in garter stitch, and from there, you pick up stitches around the rectangle that you’ve created and work in the round. When the bag is complete, you felt it in the washing machine.
Directions
With MC1, cast on 48 (64) sts.
Work 32 rows in garter stitch (knit all rows). There will be 16 garter ridges. Don’t cut the yarn.
With your 48 (64) sts still on the needles, continue with MC1 and pick up and knit 16 sts down the first short side, 48 (64) sts along the cast-on edge, and 16 sts along the second short side of the base. There will be 128 (160) sts on the needles. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.
Switch to CC1 and knit 2 rounds.
Use the pinbox mosaic pattern presented here or any other 16-stitch mosaic pattern that you like (see Chapter 7 for some choices). I include the pinbox mosaic pattern information in the chart in Figure 11-14, and I also write it out. Use the method that’s easiest for you to follow. For each row, the stitches shown in the working color are worked, and the stitches shown in the other color are slipped. Each chart row represents two consecutive pattern rows.
When you’re working a mosaic pattern, always slip stitches purlwise.
Rounds 1 and 2: With MC1, *k15, slip 1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 3 and 4: With CC1, *slip 1, k13, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 5 and 6: With MC1, *k1, slip 1, k11, slip 1, k1, slip 1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 7 and 8: With CC1, *slip 1, k1, slip 1, k9, slip 1, k1, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 9 and 10: With MC1, *(k1, slip 1) 2 times, k7, (slip 1, k1) 2 times, slip 1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 11 and 12: With CC1, *(slip 1, k1) 2 times, slip 1, k5, (slip 1, k1) 3 times, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 13 and 14: With MC1, *(k1, slip 1) 3 times, k3, (slip 1, k1) 3 times, slip 1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 15 and 16: With CC1, *(slip 1, k1) 8 times, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 17 and 18: Repeat Rounds 13 and 14.
Rounds 19 and 20: Switch to CC2 and repeat Rounds 11 and 12.
Rounds 21 and 22: Repeat Rounds 9 and 10. Rounds 23 and 24: With CC2, repeat Rounds 7 and 8. Rounds 25 and 26: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6. Rounds 27 and 28: With CC2, repeat Rounds 3 and 4. Rounds 29 and 30: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2.
Rounds 31 and 32: With CC2, knit.
Rounds 33 and 34: Switch to MC2 and *k7, slip 1, k8, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 35 and 36: Switch to CC2 and *k6, slip 1, k1, slip 1, k7, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 37 and 38: Switch to MC2 and *k5, (slip 1, k1) 2 times, slip 1, k6, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 39 and 40: Switch to CC2 and *k4, (slip 1, k1) 3 times, slip 1, k5, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 41 and 42: Switch to MC2 and *k3, (slip 1, k1) 4 times, slip 1, k4, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 43 and 44: Switch to CC2 and *k2, (slip 1, k1) 5 times, slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 45 and 46: Switch to MC2 and *(k1, slip 1) 7 times, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 47 and 48: Switch to CC2 and *(slip 1, k1) 8 times, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 49 and 50: Repeat Rounds 45 and 46.
Rounds 51 and 52: Switch to CC1 and repeat Rounds 43 and 44.
Rounds 53 and 54: Repeat Rounds 41 and 42.
Rounds 55 and 56: With CC1, repeat Rounds 39 and 40.
Rounds 57 and 58: Repeat Rounds 37 and 38.
Rounds 59 and 60: With CC1, repeat Rounds 35 and 36.
Rounds 61 and 62: Repeat Rounds 33 and 34.
Rounds 63 and 64: With CC1, knit.
For the tote only, work Rounds 1-32 again before moving on to the next step.
For both purse and tote, work 4 more rounds with MC in stockinette stitch.
If you want to attach ready-made handles, bind off; you attach the handles after finishing and felting. If you want to knit in your handles, continue with the directions that follow. These knitted handles are made like big buttonholes. (See more on buttonholes in Chapter 10.)
Next round: K16 (22), bind off 16 (20) sts, k47 (59), (there are 48 (60) sts on the right needle after the last set of bound-off sts), bind off 16 (20) sts, knit to end of round.
Next round: Knit, casting on 16 (20) sts over each set of bound-off sts, using the cable cast-on (see Chapter 10). Be sure to turn your work so the WS is facing you as you cast on each set of stitches.
Knit 5 (7) more rounds, and then bind off. Weave in any ends.
Felt your bag in the washing machine. (You can find step by step instructions on felting in the appendix.) You’ll know your bag is done when it’s firm and you can no longer see the stitches. Your bag should be the approximate finished size that’s noted in the “Materials and vital statistics” section.
If you have purchased handles, you can attach them now. Follow any instructions provided with the handles or sew them on with a needle and heavy-duty sewing thread that matches the bag.
The pinbox mosaic pattern repeat presented in a chart.
Variation: Keeping your bag plain and simple
If you’d rather make a bag in a single color, knit the base and pick up stitches as outlined in the mosaic bag pattern. Begin working in the round and knit for 70 (90) rounds. If you have ready-made handles, bind off. If you want to knit handles, follow the directions given in the main pattern.
Felt your bag by following the instructions in the appendix. After felting, you can attach your handles and embellish your bag if desired.
Variation: Striping your bag
To work the purse or the tote with a stripe pattern, make the bottom of the bag as I describe in the mosaic pattern with MC1. Pick up stitches for the sides of the bag with MC1 as described in the mosaic pattern, and then knit 1 round. Note: This round doesn’t count as part of the stripe sequence.
Switch to CC1 (but don’t cut MC1) and knit 2 rows.
Knit 2 rows with MC1.
Repeat the previous 4 rounds until you’ve worked 3 stripes each of MC1 and CC1.
Cut MC1 and join MC2. Work 3 stripes each of CC1 and MC2.
Cut CC1 and join CC2. Work 3 stripes each of CC2 and MC2. Cut MC2 and join MC1. Work 3 stripes each of CC2 and MC1. Repeat this stripe sequence until you’ve knit 72 (96) rounds.
If you’re adding ready-made handles, bind off and felt your bag. If you’re making the knit-in handle, stop striping and, using MC1 only, follow the directions in the basic pattern. Follow the directions for the mosaic bag on finishing and felting.
When you alternate colors, twist the two yarns around one another at the beginning of each round to keep things tidy and to prevent any gaps. Chapter 8 covers the basics on changing colors as you knit.
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