LiaKnits: Tips and Tricks Of The Round Ripple Afghan

Tips and Tricks Of The Round Ripple Afghan

Read the ORIGINAL POST HERE

Basic round ripple afghan pattern HERE

Virtues of the Round Ripple Afghan.

Unique shape as traditional afghans have been rectangular or square

No corners to drag on the floor and get stepped on or fall over

Probably uses less yarn as there are no corners

Can be folded and worn like a shawl

Never have to worry about if it will be long enough

Excellent stash buster as center starts out very small

Works up rapidly (encouraging those who get discouraged while completing large projects)

Can be used before it is finished

It starts out as a coaster, next a hot pad, it grows to a table center,

then that cute baby blanket, which increases to becomes a little throw,

which expands to an afghan, then explodes into a bed cover.

The pattern I use for my basic Round Ripple Star afghan pattern is my own which I worked out from a picture of a round ripple rug that I saw in a magazine over 40 years ago. That is how long I have been making this style afghan.

I had no written pattern as it is so simple I committed it to memory years ago. I have been asked for it so many times I have decided to write mine out but you may use any round ripple pattern you choose. At this time there are many round ripple afghan patterns online that range from 5 to 24 points. Some are free some are not. Free or not from what I can see, the basic working structure is the same on all round ripple afghan patterns. My personal preference is 12 points so any reference from here forward gives reference to a 12 point "star" afghan.

The pattern increases in the points and decreases at the bottom or valley of same. The stitch format is the same as for the basic side to side ripple and any stitch I have used on the rows for side to side ripple I have used on the rounds for the round ripple. Unlike the side to side ripple where the stitch count remains fixed throughout the length, the round ripple increases its stitch count on designated rounds. Also unlike the side to side ripple which is turned at the end of each row, when working in rounds, I always work this pattern face up without turning.

The round ripple afghan can be made with any weight yarn and any size hook and can become any size you want. When choosing yarn weight be advised, on a 12 point round ripple the number of stitches grows by 24 stitches on every increase round. The weight or thickness of the yarn will determine how many rounds are needed to accomplish the desired diameter of the afghan. As you get to the outside rounds it can get tedious but usually by that time you are excited enough about it to dig up enough determination to finish it. However you can stop at the end of any increase shell round and call it large enough.

This style afghan is a fabulous stash buster because very small amounts can be used in the center saving larger amounts for the outside rows. I always measure point to point and the afghan displayed here is about 65 inches. I have made star afghans with diameters ranging from 36 inches up to 76 inches in diameter. I use about four 7 oz skeins of Red Heart Super Saver worsted weight yarn to make a personal size afghan. A little more perhaps if you want an elaborate border. If making a "stash buster" I weigh out about 30 to 34 oz of worsted weight yarn in complementing colors arranging the smallest amounts for the center. I reserve the largest amount to be used as the base color and "work in" a base color row every so often to pull it all together. I do not mix different yarn weights in the same afghan unless it is trim attached later. I only use yarn that can be machine washed and dried as I find it more practical for active families.

In my basic pattern I always refer to the 2 ch space of a shell as the point. I always refer to the decrease stitches between points as the valley. There is always a ch 2 space at the points and a skip two stitches at the center of the valley. Always skip the last stitch of the previous point and the first stitch of the next point.

I detest the "hole" and ridge left by "chain loop starts" so I always use the "magic circle." often with a double wrap for strength. There are many tutorials for the magic circle or loop on the web and You-tube.

I also detest the "joining line" or what I call the line of "demarcation" and on each new round I only chain 2 not 3 to help hide the joining line. When adding a new color I always rotate my piece clockwise one point to the left of the last joining to help disguise an obvious joining line.

I always join new colors in the first working stitch after the valley between points to maintain the integrity of the points. I always end an afghan on an increase shell round to keep the points crisp.

While it is small I count the stitches every second or third round. Once each point gets to about 15 stitches each side (or 30 stitches per point) I count the stitches point by individual point at the end of each round to make sure all points have the same number of stitches. Counting each point is less confusing than trying to count the entire round. The reason for counting all point on each round is because you can end up with several hundred stitches on the last rounds and if you need to rip it out you will regret not having counted.

Please refer to the page "My Basic Round Ripple Afghan Pattern" for the pattern of how I make my round ripple star afghans. There is only one basic structure for this type afghan so I lay no claim to the basic pattern itself. I claim only my ideas for my variations thereof. What makes each afghan unique is the personal choice of colors and stitches used to create each. Therefore, you can adapt my patterns as a base to create your chosen round ripple design.

How To Fold A Round Afghan